The first documented record of whaling in Asturias dates back to 1232 , specifically to the port of Entrelusa (a small cove located in what is now Perlora). It is said that Charles V himself requested this small whaling enclave as part of his dowry upon landing in Asturias.
Many legends reinforce its maritime significance, such as the one that claims the Christ of Candás , the quintessential Christ of all the brotherhoods of Asturias, the most seafaring Christ known, was rescued by fishermen from Candás from the treacherous waters of Ireland in the 16th century . It is also said that, once in Candás, the statue wore earrings imitating those worn by local sailors distinguished for crossing the dreaded Cape Horn. The Christ presides over the Church of San Félix , a Neo-Baroque building—with primitive remains of the 12th-century Romanesque church—which is one of the most visited sanctuaries in central Asturias.
The sea, the sea, the sea ...
For much of its history, Candás was the port that set the price of fish in Asturias thanks to its extensive canning industry . Its boom began in the 18th century with the tradition of salting and pickling fish and developed significantly in the 19th century, until the mid-20th century, when the town boasted 24 canneries . A permanent exhibition on the Candás canning industry is located in the former cistern of a cannery in Les Conserveres Park. This center traces the history of this activity with true gems from the era, including original pieces of machinery, tools, and materials used in the industry.
Near the harbor basin stands the statue of La Marinera , depicting with a gesture of suffering all the women who came to the port awaiting the safe return of their husbands. The Candás Lighthouse is another local symbol . Located on Cape San Antonio, perched on the edge of a 40-meter cliff, it marks the entrance to the port. A path leads to it from the town center. From this promontory, on clear days, one can glimpse the breakwater of the Port of Gijón to the east, and to the west, a magnificent coastline stretching to Cape Peñas . In the surrounding area, one can discover some legendary cannons that the Spanish Crown ordered to be placed there to protect the town from attacks by English privateers.
Walking around Candás
A stroll through Candás is a rewarding experience. We can start from the port itself and its promenade, which, along with the nearby Palmera urban beach, is one of the busiest areas, brimming with bars and restaurants. However, if we enjoy walking, we can begin our excursion from the impressive cliffs near the cemetery and descend towards the town, taking in unique views and passing by the beaches of Sequiro, Solfín, and Rebolleres.
Or you can climb to Punta San Antonio, where the lighthouse stands , and then descend to the port, stopping at the Antón Sculpture Museum . A well-proportioned museum with enough prestige to attract contemporary works of significant artistic weight and size. It's housed in an 18th-century mansion, surrounded by a large garden where you can enjoy a pleasant stroll among sculptures of all kinds. We approach a strange troll, almost an ogre, shaggy-haired, who brazenly holds one of Candás's symbols: the sardine . We're also startled by an enormous face lying on the ground, a monumental face like those on Easter Island.
Asturian preserves
The streets of Candás exude an air of traditional Asturian craftsmanship and preserves, with shops specializing in exclusive items and products everywhere you look, especially unique tins of canned goods : squid and beans, artisanal anchovies, bonito in cider, peppers stuffed with bonito, seafood salad, sardine pâtés, fresh periwinkles, sea urchins in caviar, seaweed fritters, and much more, representing a veritable renaissance of this industry, focused, of course, on the gourmet market . We were struck by a mural almost ten meters long of the Salve Marinera ( Sailors' Hymn), painted on one of the walls of Candás's main square, El Paseín. The painting is considered one of the most prized pieces in this open-air museum that is Candás.
A rich heritage
Within the town itself, there are beautiful examples of civil architecture, such as the Town Hall, a sober and robust, imposing 20th-century building. There is also a thriving cultural scene, as evidenced by the busy program at the Prendes Theatre . Near the town center, there are countless attractions for visitors, such as the Quinta Clarín estate in the La Rebollada neighborhood, where the writer Leopoldo Alas Clarín, who included Candás in many of his stories, spent long periods of time; or the medieval Prendes Tower , perched on a gentle hill 7 kilometers from Candás. This solid, square structure, built between the 14th and 15th centuries, is now only partially completed.
The Church of Santa María de Piedeloro , in the village of the same name, is a designated Historical-Artistic Monument and consists of a single nave in the Romanesque style, dating from the 12th century. The Chapel of San Roque , on Mount Fuxa, about 300 meters from the town center, was built at the beginning of the 16th century to pray to the saint that the plague would not enter Candás. The feast day in his honor is celebrated on August 16th, with Mass in the chapel followed by a pilgrimage. Traditional granaries (hórreos), typical of this area, fountains, lime kilns, and old washhouses dot the villages of the municipality.
Archaeologically, the Dark Cave in Perlora stands out, where evidence of the first inhabitants of Carreño was discovered. Near this site, the Perlora Holiday Resort was built during the 20th century . Originally a trade union resort, it enjoyed its heyday in the 1960s as a holiday destination. Located about 2 km from Candás, on the coast, it has access to two beaches and viewpoints overlooking the Cantabrian Sea. Today, it shows clear signs of deterioration, which is being addressed by giving it a new focus for tourism.
The magnetism of this town as a summer resort has been and is fully supported by a typically Asturian village, a stunning coastline and an unbeatable location, just 15 kilometers from Gijón and Avilés and 30 from Oviedo.
Text: © Ramón Molleda for asturias.com


















