In 2000, it was declared a Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO and is currently the most protected natural area in the entire Principality of Asturias. A special permit is required to visit, and only twenty people are allowed per day. Besides being the symbol of the entire region, Muniellos is also the largest forest in Asturias, the largest oak forest in Spain with over 5.000 hectares, and one of the best-preserved Atlantic forests in all of Europe.
Accessing Muniellos is almost a privilege, making us feel like castaways on an unusual island, located in the southwesternmost part of Asturias , on the mountain ranges that separate the municipalities of Ibias and Cangas del Narcea.
The forest encompasses three entire mountains: Valdebois, Muniellos, and La Viliella. The first lies entirely within the municipality of Ibias, while the other two are in Cangas del Narcea. This extraordinary nature reserve boasts the greatest biodiversity in the Cantabrian Mountains , with an overwhelming abundance of fungi, lichens, and some 400 species of mushrooms.
Oaks of various types, some reaching up to six meters in circumference, beech and birch groves in the shadier areas, interspersed with holly and yew trees. Riparian species such as ash and poplar mingle with hazel, rowan, and boxwood. Undoubtedly, its natural heritage is so immense that it truly deserves the name of a forest—an infinite forest, for although it has territorial boundaries, it has no limits in its content or its high degree of naturalness.
Muniellos sits atop a Paleozoic bedrock some 500 million years old . Its glacial origin is still evident in the famous lagoons of Pico de la Candanosa , nestled among valleys, trails, and peaks. The ascent to these lagoons—La Peña, Grande, Fonda, and La Isla—is one of the most popular routes for hiking enthusiasts. Located above 1.400 meters in altitude , the lagoons are surrounded by a cirque of ancient mountains, and their waters reflect all the hues of the surrounding forest.
It rains a lot in Muniellos , which facilitates its constant regeneration. Very high rainfall and temperatures of 10 degrees Celsius in the mid-mountain areas and below 6 in the summit region help maintain a constant level of humidity, essential for the development of so much life within it. Snow is frequent during the cold season, remaining for much of the winter in the higher areas and providing more vital water to this waterlogged territory. The three valleys of the great forest—La Candanosa, Las Gallegas, and La Zreizal —converge in the Muniellos River, which, after passing through the narrow Tablizas gorge, joins the Narcea River. A multitude of streams and brooks also flow into these three valleys, as many as there are days in the year, according to a local saying.
Muniellos camouflages itself in different ways with the changing seasons . The mist, the harsh weather, and the ice give way to spring, when the forest explodes in a thousand colors. Summer is the peak tourist season, but the forest is at its most splendid in spring and autumn . April and May, on the one hand, and October and November, on the other, are the best months to explore it. However, winter is the best time for wildlife viewing : more than 160 species to admire.
As the leaves fall, roe deer, chamois, wild boar, foxes , middle spotted woodpeckers, and wildcats become more visible through binoculars, though they remain elusive in the depths of the forest. Wolves, bears, and foxes occupy their space among the undergrowth, more hidden from human eyes, but we do see the flight of the goshawk, occasionally the golden eagle, and the abundant presence of otters along the numerous watercourses. In this area, we can also enjoy the largest and most stable population of capercaillie in the entire Asturian mountain range.
How to get to Muniellos
To reach the area by car, you must drive past Cangas de Narcea to Ventanueva. The main access is via the AS-211 local road, which connects with the AS-15 regional road near Ventanueva and leads through the Puerto del Connio pass to San Antolín de Ibias. Just 3 km from Ventanueva lies the village of Moal, from where a dirt track leads in a little over four kilometers to Tablizas, where the ranger's house is located. There, you will be greeted by the ranger and given your visitor permit to begin the hike.
How long does it take to do the Muniellos route?
There are two possible routes : a longer, steeper, and more scenic one, about 11 km long, which gains more elevation and offers much wider views; and a shorter, flatter route, except for the final climb, which follows the valley floor, about 6,5 km long. Both routes start at the ranger's house and end at the lagoons, so unless your physical abilities prevent it, the normal and most beautiful option is to hike the longer route and return via the shorter one. The total distance is approximately 20 km ( 7 or 8 hours ) of mountain trail, with an ascent of about 600 m.
Visit and permits to Muniellos
Visits must be authorized by the Department of the Environment , with a maximum of 20 visitors allowed per day. The application must include the name, surname, and national identity card number of each member of the group, and the group leader must also provide a photocopy of their national identity card, an address, and a contact telephone number.
Muniellos phone reservation
Call 012 if you are in Asturias, or 985 279 100 if you are outside Asturias (hours: Monday to Friday, from 8:30 a.m. to 19:00 p.m. non-stop) or online, on the Principality of Asturias portal, Muniellos reservation request
Text: © Ramón Molleda for asturias.com
