The walk we propose below is a return to the Oviedo that Leopoldo Alas Clarín portrayed . He knew it almost exactly as it appears to us today, and it served as the inevitable setting for his famous novel, La Regenta.
Okay, so we approach the vicinity of the cathedral along González Abascal Street. To our left opens up Porlier Square , renovated not too long ago. Currently, the focal point is the sculpture of a traveler laden with suitcases, seemingly at rest. We're talking about " The Return of Williams B. Arrensberg ," a suggestive title for a stone figure created by the artist Úrculo in 1993. He appears to have just arrived in Vetusta, perhaps like us, and pauses for a moment before the Camposagrado Palace, dating from the 18th century.
To our right, closing off the square, stands the 17th-century Palace of the Count of Toreno , birthplace of the illustrious deputy to the Cortes of Cádiz and equally illustrious historian, José María Queipo de Llano. This building now houses the Royal Institute of Asturian Studies, dedicated to the study and dissemination of Asturian ethnography, culture, and literature.
The sculptures of Oviedo
In recent years, the city of Oviedo has experienced a remarkable increase in its urban attractions… Read more
Right nearby, as an extension of González Abascal Street, is San Francisco Street , where we find the historic building of the University of Oviedo - it remained as a teaching space until the 80s and currently houses some of the University 's services such as the Rectorate or the General Secretariat - and also one of the most famous places in the whole city for its delicious " Moscovitas" : the Rialto Confectionery.
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The Plaza of the Cathedral of Oviedo
We arrived at the Cathedral Square, dominated by the monumental tower of its basilica and a wide open space where houses with beautiful arcades once stood. The famous "madreñes" market was held there, making it one of the social epicenters of old Oviedo. From this spot, we could see the 17th-century Valdecárzana Heredia Palace. A legendary building for Oviedo society and for the world of fiction, as it housed the famous Casino de la Regenta until 1931. Cathedral and Casino, an inseparable pair in the novel, which today finds yet another defining feature: the sculpted figure of Ana Ozores, La Regenta . Like any other passerby, but of a sculptural nature, with origins both imagined and realistic.
The Cathedral of Oviedo
Not many years ago, the facade of Oviedo Cathedral appeared dark and superficially plain… Read more
Visit to the tower of the Cathedral
The tower of Oviedo Cathedral is one of the best viewpoints in the city, and thanks to a visit… Read more
From the intricate network of pedestrian alleyways that greet us, we'll initially take Cimadevilla Street , which, along with Rúa and Magdalena Street, formed the lifeblood of Oviedo society. Shops, cafés for conversation, bazaars, and more lined the street. To our left, a small alleyway slopes gently downhill, leading to Trascorrales Square.
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Right next to the cathedral square, at 1 Santa Ana Street, we find the Museum of Fine Arts of Asturias, which occupies two historic buildings : the sumptuous Velarde Palace and the Casa-Palacio . It houses some 10.000 cataloged pieces, of which 400 are on public display. The collection includes paintings by Spanish artists (particularly Asturian) and foreign artists (mainly Italian and Flemish), as well as sculptures, photographs, and glass and earthenware objects.
Museum of Fine Arts of Asturias
The Museum, inaugurated in Oviedo in May 1980, is housed in three buildings in the neighborhood … Read more
And behind the cathedral, in the former Monastery of San Vicente, is the Archaeological Museum of Asturias, probably the most emblematic and modern museum of Spanish archaeology and one of the most surprising in Asturias. We invite you to visit it and see for yourselves.
No less than 4.800 square meters to embark on an enigmatic journey from the Paleolithic to the Middle Ages, prominently including the Asturian elements recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site.
Archaeological Museum of Asturias
The Archaeological Museum of Asturias is located in the very heart of Oviedo, at the rear of the… Read more
The Town Hall Square
Now we briefly retrace our steps, returning to Cimadevilla Street, where at the end we find the archway we must pass through. It is actually the most important gate of the old medieval wall . Above it rises the tower with the Town Hall clock, leading us to the Plaza de la Constitución , surrounded by architectural gems, humble yet adding to the overall beauty. Also located in the plaza is the 17th-century Church of San Isidoro el Real, with its distinctive character.
We are in the very heart of Oviedo, and restaurants and cider houses abound where most Asturian cuisines come together , the specialties of the coast and the mountains, the recipes of the municipalities of the region, all represented in daily menus and extensive menus at street level.
The gastronomy of Oviedo
Besides feeling it in your heart, you can also savor Oviedo on your palate. In the restaurants and cider houses of… Read more
The Plaza del Fontán
We leave it to our right and take Magdalena Street towards El Fontán , an emblematic square in Old Oviedo that has been completely rebuilt with more modern architectural principles. The reconstruction was controversial, and we won't judge it here. Come and draw your own conclusions. If you manage to take a photo of the old square, you'll have both sides of the story.
The Fontán and its adjacent square, Plaza Daoiz y Velarde, are a popular meeting point in the city and a favorite spot for tapas, browsing the flea market, or visiting the flower market . Located in Daoiz y Velarde is the neoclassical Casa de las Comedias (House of Comedies), which now houses the Pérez de Ayala Public Library, a well-stocked and popular library. Next to this cultural center stands one of the city's largest palaces, the Baroque-style Palacio del Duque del Parque.
El Fontán Market
El Fontán can be considered the epicenter of Oviedo, as strolling through its streets and squares fills us with… Read more
The Plaza de Riego
Recall that we had gone down Magdalena Street, and we're probably now circling Plaza del Fontán. Fierro Street then appears, which we must go up. We arrive back at Plaza de la Constitución and this time we leave the church to our left, heading towards another street that goes down, El Peso Street.
This inevitably leads us to the end of our tour through Oviedo's old town, leaving us at one of its most illustrious landmarks: Plaza del Riego , named after the Asturian liberal general whose uprising forced the Liberal Triennium (1820-1823) against the absolutism of Ferdinand VII . This small square is a popular spot for conversation and gatherings on warmer evenings and nights, especially during the popular San Mateo festivities, when it fills with music and food stalls.
Festivities of San Mateo in Oviedo
When summer ends, in Asturias you still need to save some extra energy because the fiestas are coming... Read more
The area surrounding the old town will not leave anyone indifferent, and a visit to the San Francisco Park is a must . With its 90.000 square meters, it is one of the hearts of social life in Oviedo; a heart that coincides with its main urban lung, made up of hundreds of centuries-old trees.
Park of San Francisco de Oviedo
If we're talking about one of the hearts of social life in Oviedo, a heart that coincides with its main... Read more
No less obligatory is a visit to the pre-Romanesque architecture of the city, declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO.
The Asturian pre-Romanesque of Oviedo
The most traditional architecture of Asturias dates back more than a thousand years. The traces of… Read more
And if as a climax we ascend to Monte Naranco, we will obtain a magnificent panoramic view of the city and of the entire route that we have made at street level.
Mount Naranco
Having Oviedo at your feet is a real sensation that we experience from the summit of Mount Naranco . Read more
Text: © Ramón Molleda for asturias.com
