Nutritious and tasty, the size of a walnut, the chestnut, now without its spiny mantle, remains shy and introspective, and is still protected by a leathery, dark brown shell which, when smoke-dried, is called pilonga. In this state it can be stored all year round.
Chestnut Festival in Arriondas
Arriondas, the capital of the Parres province , has long since elevated the chestnut to a culinary icon, rescuing it from obscurity and the hidden corners of the culinary world. Every year, in mid-November, it organizes the popular Chestnut Festival . The "castañazu," as some call it, particularly in reference to the festive weekend's nightlife, has drawn crowds of enthusiasts during the day for over 25 years.
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A few tons of delicious chestnuts are sold at this event. It's one of the few commercial versions of a ritual: chestnut gathering , which has barely explored any potential markets beyond home consumption. In reality, there are no producers in the region, only gatherers. These gatherers are everywhere; anyone can be one. Every chestnut lover knows where to go to find them in season. Going "to the gueta" means gathering chestnuts from the ground along paths or lanes, or from chestnut groves near walled estates. The chestnut ritual begins in a common place, it belongs to everyone, and it ends in a common way as well, with public and popular consumption.
There are initiatives, almost experimental in nature, that aim to focus chestnut cultivation on a future economy based on the profitable sale of chestnuts. This is happening at the center in La Toya, in Parres itself, where the first step is to study the common diseases that affect chestnut trees and their subsequent harvest. The target market begins with caring for and understanding the tree , addressing the common epidemics that plague it, just as was done decades earlier with apple trees.
Be that as it may, while we wait for phytosanitary issues to stabilize and the economy to take the lead, the chestnut has been and continues to be a preferred excuse for social events and rituals in Asturias during the autumn. The famous amagüestos have been celebrated in every Asturian farmhouse and village since time immemorial. The chestnut tree arrived in Asturias with the Romans, and for a long time, before the arrival of the American potato, it was the main source of warmth during the winter. Something so important in the past diet cannot go unnoticed in modern times, however varied our food may be. Around the chestnut, we celebrate with open-air dances, the occasional mass, and the sounds of tambourines, bagpipes, and regional costumes. A tribute that comes from the heart of the Asturian people.
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Traditionally, chestnuts were roasted on an iron griddle , back when they were still plentiful in Asturian homes (before then, the griddle in traditional kitchens served this purpose), and chestnut trunks were often used as fuel. At home, these chestnut roasts are accompanied by cider, usually sweet, and nowadays they are often celebrated communally, with friends and family, or even organized by associations, groups, or institutions.
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This chestnut tradition has left its mark not only in Parres, but also in numerous other Asturian towns and municipalities such as Candamo, Navelgas, Llanes , etc.
The essence of this passion lies in the very heart of the fruit, in its intrinsic qualities. These qualities are numerous and beneficial to the body: high carbohydrate content (40%), low fat (2-3%), high-quality protein (5-10%), and cholesterol-free. All associations and organizations concerned with public health recommend it as part of a balanced diet.
The Spanish chestnut, and with it the Asturian, is one of the most appreciated in the world for its flavor. Although entire continents, such as Australia, have long specialized in their commercialization, it can be said that they have done so by making them less tasty, using somewhat artificial conservation techniques that are far removed from the pilonga trick, cited here.
The cuisine associated with chestnuts transcends the almost rudimentary simplicity of traditional chestnut roasts, elevating them to the status of exquisite dishes that bear their name. Chestnut soup, for example, blends chestnuts with chicken broth, celery, salt, pepper, lemon, and even macaroni with chestnuts. For a sweet dessert, there's chestnut compote.
Whether in its pure form or in sophisticated dishes, the chestnut has a high nutritional value and a social value that in regions like Asturias serves to perpetuate friendship and neighborly ties with satisfied stomachs.
Text: © Ramón Molleda for asturias.com
