Unlike the multitude of cheese festivals in the Principality, the one in Cuerres has its own distinct essence. It's not about eating for the sake of eating, but about savoring the unique atmosphere of a country picnic , enjoyed in the company of family and friends, with a touch of the ancestral. It's no exaggeration to say that the Cuerres Cheese Fair is a true model of a traditional festival , and perhaps this authenticity stems from the fact that the Fair traces its origins back centuries, with the feast of Saint Lawrence being a key date for local trade, including a renowned livestock fair. The location itself may also play a role: Cuerres, an enclave in Ribadesella, whose name evokes the ancient Celtic spirit, hinting at a possible fortified settlement from the Iron Age. Today, the tradition is renewed, and Cuerres keeps the flame of the market alive by specializing in an ephemeral and well-attended ritual that always leaves a good taste in the mouths of its loyal followers.
There's cheese, lots of cheese . Around a ton is the final tally of sales year after year. The artisan stalls gathered in the village supply the immediate appetites of the most eager customers, and only a small percentage of what's bought is kept to share the flavor with family and friends who missed the fair. For a few hours, the village of Cuerres becomes the cheese capital of Asturias . The traditional fairgrounds and the area around the parish church are transformed into picturesque, impromptu restaurants.
Gamonéu, Cabrales, Picón, goat cheese from Vidiago and Pría, and countless other regional dairy products are on offer in the town square. But in addition to cheeses, many other local products are available to satisfy the appetite, as well as traditional desserts to aid digestion. Spicy and sweet chorizo, cured beef, canned fish, liqueurs, cider, jam, sweets, honey, empanadas, pastries, tarts, casadielles (sweet pastries), frixuelos (crepes) , breads of all types and sizes, and countless other homemade treats are laid out on makeshift tablecloths in the festival meadow in the late afternoon. Hundreds of diners crowd the picnic area and continue their conversations until nightfall.
Later , the crowd gathers around the mobile bar, and the orchestra, unhurriedly, begins its first chords. The festivities continue in the Plaza de la Parroquia de San Mames with a relaxed and lively open-air dance. One way or another, everyone ends up getting caught up in the fun, and the extraordinary turnout for the dance reaffirms the festive spirit of the village. Cuerres remains the perfect excuse to keep the summer nights going, fueled by the unstoppable momentum that the Descent of the Sella River brings with it at the beginning of August.
Dawn breaks in the village and there are still many who do not want to leave; the cheese has worked its magic , perhaps like a "magic potion".
Text: © Ramón Molleda for asturias.com
