We're talking about a mountain range that rises majestically above the mining valleys , straddling the municipalities of Laviana and Aller. A succession of peaks and spires converge into a higher, sharper spur, visible from many areas of central Asturias. Reaching the summit offers a 360-degree panoramic view of the central mountain range; you can even see the sea. A breathtaking vista that draws mountaineers back time and again.
The immediate surroundings of this mountain are already idyllic: beech and oak forests, cabins and livestock grazing in the mountain pastures, a crossroads of trails, and hundreds of colossal rocks with whimsical shapes. Rocks like the one that created the Bull's Eye of Peña Mea. A powerful magnet for mountaineers and photography enthusiasts; one of those places considered "Instagrammable" for providing an unparalleled backdrop for our selfies. But don't be fooled, reaching this point is no walk in the park. Climbing up here is not recommended for people who suffer from vertigo and also requires a moderate effort: a four-hour hike, round trip, up steep slopes.
We must always be attentive to the weather reports and have a lot of respect for the mountains. Peña Mea is not just anything.
How to get to the Ojo de Buey de Peña Mea
On our ascent, we'll come across that enormous hole that pierces the limestone as if by magic. Known to locals as "El Furacón" or " El Arcón de la Finestra ," it's over 15 meters in diameter and is the result of intense and curious karst erosion. A titanic cavity, a gigantic window onto the Asturian landscape at an altitude of 1300 meters. To peer into it, we must travel a considerable distance from two possible starting points: the town of Pelúgano (Aller) or the Les Campes area (Laviana).
The village of Pelúgano boasts one of the highest concentrations of hórreos (traditional Asturian granaries) and paneras (bread houses) in all of Asturias—no fewer than 37 in total. From here to the Ojo de Buey (bull's-eye viewpoint), it will take us about two hours along a well-marked but challenging path. In the upper part of Pelúgano (at about 600 meters altitude), there is a church near which we can park the car. The route is easy to follow. After passing a small mountain pasture and the refreshing spring of El Truncu, we continue gaining altitude to the 1000-meter mark near the "Cerréu" peak. Here, we leave the track for a path that becomes increasingly steep until we reach the base of the Canal de las Cuevas (Canal of the Caves ). Seen from below, the climb is imposing. This is undoubtedly the most demanding section, about 200 meters of tough ascent that leads us to the foot of the Arcón peak.
The second option for reaching the bull's-eye viewpoint starts from Pola de Laviana. By car, head towards Villoria and before reaching San Antonio de Tolivia, turn left towards Fresnedo. There, take a track towards Les Campes and the Hermitage of the Visitation (890 meters above sea level). From this point, you can already see the imposing mass of Peña Mea towering above you. Reaching the Arcón viewpoint will take approximately an hour and a half . Follow a track through woods to the "Collado Pelúgano" pass, a junction with the routes that ascend the Aller side (like the one described earlier). At this pass, the path forks. Take the left branch towards Cerréu , where you'll find the first cairns marking the way to the Canal de las Cuevas and from there to the Furacón viewpoint . This route, like the previous one, is of medium difficulty. The effort required will depend on your fitness level.
No matter how many times we have seen it in photographs, this great rock arch will captivate us. You can access its rear area by gaining a few meters of altitude and going around it along the Lavianese side, although the terrain is quite slippery and you have to be very careful.
Summiting Peña Mea
From the Ojo de Buey viewpoint, we have only 250 meters of ascent left to reach the summit . The trail is marked with paint blazes; it doesn't have any difficult sections, but it does have some steeper stretches. After passing the ridge of the rock, we discover a large cave to the left, known locally as La Iglesiona. We continue along a winding path. The final slopes, many of them hidden from view, will make us impatient. The final push is truly alpine and should be enjoyed at a leisurely pace. The final panoramic view is an unbeatable reward. On clear days, looking east, we can see Corbellosu or Pico Torres. A little further away are Peña Ten and the Picos de Europa. Turning in other directions, we can see all the peaks of the Aller region, many of them over 2000 meters; also the Aramo and Mostayal mountain ranges, and even Peña Ubiña and Peña Rueda.
If we've started our ascent from Les Campes, we can return via an alternative route that makes our hike a loop. We'll descend the north face towards Doñango , crossing a wooded area, and then a small pass on the way to "La Boyica," continuing down through a beautiful beech forest until we reach some meadows above the Collada Doñango pass. From this pass, it's just over 2 kilometers along a track to return to Les Campes. There, the hike will end.
Interesting information
This mountain is not easy to climb from any of its sides, and in adverse weather conditions it can become a dangerous route. The hike requires a certain level of physical fitness and technical skill, and may even require using your hands to overcome the steep inclines, especially if ascending from the lower slopes (Pelúgano).
Whether we ascend from Pelúgano or from Les Campes, we will have to overcome a difference in altitude of more than 800 meters.
The round trip will take no less than 4 and a half hours.
Recommendations: It's advisable to bring plenty of water (there are two fountains along the way). Wear appropriate footwear and comfortable clothing. In summer, don't forget sunscreen and a hat, as shade is scarce. Always check the weather forecast and avoid hiking in fog, rain, or wind.
Photographs: © San Nicolás Mountain Group
