Santa Cristina de Lena

Latitude: 43.1273613 Length: -5.8144283
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This jewel of Asturian pre-Romanesque architecture, perhaps the least known , can be visited if you plan ahead and call the caretaker to arrange a visit. Its central nave barely exceeds 10 meters in length and 6 meters in width. It's a "mini-church," we might say, but its extreme simplicity and the wealth of admirable details in such a small space make it something precious and exceptional. An eclectic temple: courtly and sacred, one of the most unique of its time. Mysterious as well, like a missing link that defies definitive explanations regarding its origin.

Santa Cristina was declared a National Monument in 1885 and a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1985 , along with other pre-Romanesque monuments in Asturias; monuments that in all cases raise the question of who their architect was and how he and his team were able to master a type of complex and perfectly executed construction, which has no previous precedent on the continent.

The history of Santa Cristina de Lena

Its undeniable historical and artistic appeal seems to date back to time immemorial , fueling legends, a host of historiographical theories, and being the focus of ongoing debate among a multitude of specialists.

It is found crowning a gentle hill that, according to legend, hides a cave in which lives a hen (the reincarnation of a maiden murdered by her father) that lays golden eggs and that once every hundred years is seen by the surroundings of Santa Cristina. Other popular accounts tell of tombs with giant bones that were found nearby.

The documented history seems to cast doubt on the Christian foundation of the site. The current church may have been the culmination of a series of buildings erected successively on this location. It is presumed that some medallions located between the arches were filed down to conceal secular iconography. The same is true of other motifs inside the church that deviate from a sacred conception.

The site of Santa Cristina, an important vantage point overlooking the Lena region and the routes connecting Asturias and the plateau, is a location similar to those favored for erecting burial mounds, dolmens, or hill forts. According to experts, it may also have been a palatial hall intended for the recreation of the Asturian court, perhaps the closest antecedent to the Christianization of the site. All sorts of theories and conjectures have been put forward about Santa Cristina, which, although more or less reasoned, have not been documented and therefore have never been definitively proven.

Its true recognition as a monument dates back to the late 18th century when, among others, Jovellanos visited Santa Cristina and produced a series of plans and drawings of the monument. In 1892, the first documented intervention took place: the church, after several centuries of neglect, was expertly and successfully restored by Juan Bautista Lázaro, who was responsible for works at the Mosque-Cathedral of Córdoba and the architect of the Crystal Palace in Madrid. This clearly demonstrates the importance attributed to this monument in the 19th century. In the 20th century, several archaeological excavations, as well as other maintenance and restoration work, have allowed us to admire it today in a magnificent state of preservation.

Santa Cristina, pre-Romanesque monument

Small, solitary, and majestic atop a dreamlike hill, Santa Cristina de Lena is above all a slender yet robust figure , crafted from the typical warm stone of pre-Romanesque art. It features a Greek cross floor plan , characteristic of Visigothic churches, a feature that makes it even more unique. Although the church is attributed to the reign of Ramiro I (842-850), some authors maintain that it was actually built in the 7th century and later rebuilt, perhaps under the direction of the same architect as Santa María del Naranco or another familiar with the construction techniques. Its always problematic dating, as mentioned, leads some to argue that its reconstruction could predate the construction of Santa María (consecrated in 848).

Fascinated by its robust stones and the perfect symmetry created by so many buttresses and projections, we began to circle it to see if it could possibly have, as some say, 365 corners —as many as there are days in the year. Beneath a semicircular arch is the only entrance, another unusual feature, as Asturian churches of this period typically have three. This suggests that all parishioners, without distinction, entered through the same door, and considering that worshippers were separated by sex in the High Middle Ages, some believe that Santa Cristina served a female religious community.

Once inside, we found that, just like the exterior, it is perfectly preserved . The nave is divided into three sections. The apse, raised one meter above the ground, is separated from the rest of the church by an iconostasis , a feature unique to this Romanesque church worldwide. It consists of three semicircular arches resting on columns and capitals, and is accessed by two lateral staircases. Beneath the central arch, we can admire a Visigothic-era screen with carved crosses and rosettes, which was reused and once served during liturgical services, separating the presbytery from the area reserved for the congregation.

Also of great interest is the gallery above the portico, accessed by a staircase on the interior side of the church. This structure, which is repeated in several Asturian churches, is unique in Santa Cristina de Lena because it extends over the first bay of the nave, supported by a large semicircular arch, creating a unique "balcony" overlooking the church.

The reliefs visible in Santa Cristina are carvings with animal and war motifs (warriors on horseback), perhaps because the surrounding area was always the site of skirmishes for territorial conquest. Two capitals that appear to represent owls are particularly striking. Initially, historians described them as "capitals with volutes, made with an incised design." But if they are indeed owls, as other studies suggest, then we would be looking at animals associated with the totemic funerary beliefs of pagan and pre-Roman peoples.

The entire church is vaulted and the transit between the different rooms is through semicircular arches. The roof of the central nave is very similar to that of Santa María del Naranco; a barrel vault on perpiaño arches supported by attached columns and truncated pyramidal capitals. The space is narrow but extraordinarily beautiful, the entry of natural light is scarce, but at certain hours of the day a set of light beams can be seen with a very spiritual effect.

How to get to Santa Cristina de Lena

It is located in the municipality of Lena , 35 km south of Oviedo and just 3,5 km from Pola de Lena, continuing along the A-66 motorway (Pola de Lena exit). GPS coordinates: 43º 7′ 38,33 N 5º 48′ 51,65 W. The church sits atop a hill in the parish of Felgueras, near Vega del Rey. Nearby is the Asturian Pre-Romanesque Art Center, located in the old La Cobertoria train station, opposite the train stop.

There are three access routes to the church. One is a fairly steep, cobbled path that begins just after passing under the bridge at the train stop. The other two also start from the station and pass under the bridge. The first of these begins shortly after and is less steep than the first, but to reach the second, you must continue along the same track a little further until you come to a signposted turnoff that connects with the final stretch to the church. There are two parking options: leave your car at the station and walk up one of the marked paths, or park in the "official" parking area, a little further up from the station. This parking area connects directly to the last of the marked paths and is accessible to everyone, including wheelchairs and strollers.

It's a good idea to visit this spot on the last Sunday of July, when the pilgrimage in honor of Saint Christina of Lena takes place. After mass, the popular "Puya'l ramu," a loaf auction in honor of the saint, is held.