History and origins: a medieval testimony
Time and human intervention have transformed its original appearance. Over the centuries, the building has undergone successive renovations: the bell gable was added in the 18th century, while side chapels, the portico, and the baptistery were added in the 19th and 20th centuries, altering its original structure. Even so, its Romanesque essence survives, especially in its western portal, where its most unique element rests: the sculpted tympanum, a rarity in medieval Asturian architecture.
The tympanum of San Juan de Priorio: a unique work in Asturias
The Romanesque portal, sheltered by the 20th-century portico, is the jewel of the complex. Its historiated tympanum depicts Christ in Majesty, the Pantocrator, surrounded by the Tetramorph: the four Evangelists symbolized by the eagle of Saint John, the lion of Saint Mark, the ox of Saint Luke, and the angel of Saint Matthew . Two angels float above the scene, adding a celestial air to the composition. The image is framed by four archivolts resting on foliate capitals and spirally decorated shafts, another uncommon element in Asturian Romanesque art.
This may not be the most spectacular Romanesque tympanum you've ever seen, but it has something very special: it's the only sculpted Romanesque tympanum preserved in Asturias , and it reflects the influence of international Romanesque art, possibly brought by pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago . It's no wonder, then, that San Juan de Priorio is located a short distance from the Northern Way of the Camino de Santiago, confirming its connection to the medieval pilgrimage phenomenon.
Architectural and decorative elements: a legacy of centuries
Despite the renovations that have altered its original structure, the church retains remarkable elements of its Romanesque past. Its Latin cross floor plan with a semicircular apse reveals the medieval layout , although later additions have blurred its original outline.
Inside the temple, the triumphal arch that separates the nave from the apse stands out, with decorated capitals and a holy water font decorated with interlaced and leaf motifs, evoking medieval sculpture. On the outside, the sculpted corbels, reused in the transept area, display a rich iconography that ranges from geometric motifs to animal and human figures, testimony to a symbolism lost in time.
The restoration carried out in 2006 returned some of the church's former splendor. The gabled chestnut wood roof was reinforced, and the sculptures were restored, ensuring the preservation of this medieval landmark for future generations. It was declared a Historic-Artistic Monument on May 7, 1965.
How to get there and recommendations for visitors
San Juan de Priorio is located in the parish of the same name in the municipality of Oviedo, just a few meters from the Las Caldas Spa , a thermal water resort with centuries of history. It is easily accessible from the Asturian capital: simply follow the AS-322 road towards Las Caldas . For those who prefer public transport, there are bus lines that connect Oviedo with this area.
For those who want to enjoy the experience to the fullest, here are some recommendations:
1. Relaxing at the Las Caldas Spa: Whether in its most modern or most traditional version, a thermal session never hurts.
2. Stroll along the banks of the Nalón: especially recommended in autumn, when nature offers its best show of colours.
3 · Try the local gastronomy: There is no shortage of places in the surrounding area where you can enjoy a good fabada or rice with pitu de caleya, accompanied, of course, by a well-poured cider.
Text: © Ramón Molleda for asturias.com
