In the upper reaches of the Tabardín River, several mountain streams converge and flow together as a single current until they empty into the Güeña River. Between the towns of Demués and Gamoneu de Onís, the Tabardín offers a truly enchanting stretch . It's easy to understand the deep connection people have with these lands, filled with traditional ingenuity that allows life to unfold in harmony with the natural environment.
The water mills
Traveling through these landscapes, the rural world of yesteryear feels both familiar and enviable. And we are captivated by that unusual industry that transformed grains into flour, with millstones carved from granite. The watermills, found along the rivers, streams, and brooks of the wetter Asturias, number around fifteen along the Tabardín mountain range. They once served to grind grains, primarily corn, and were pioneers of the cooperative economy. Most of these mills belonged to local residents , who shared the maintenance costs equally. The private mills were run by millers who were paid for their services through the traditional "maquila" (keeping a percentage of the milled grain).
The water mills supplied flour to all corners of Asturias until well into the XNUMXth century; although time has passed, it is only regrettable that the great majority of them have abandoned them.
Routes like the Tabardín River trail help to highlight this pre-industrial heritage. Furthermore, in Onís, this legacy has its own unique characteristics, as it is found near the streams and torrents of mountains as steep as those that make up the Picos de Europa.
The route of the Tabardín river
Idyllic and pastoral, Onís means "fruitful land," and for this very reason, our walks along its paths will also be fruitful. This particular hike is easy and ideal for families . It offers plenty of shade and is perfect for enjoying in summer, when we can have a refreshing dip in the waterfalls and pools we encounter (always with due caution).
We can extend the route a little further if we wish, reaching Gamoneu de Onís , the village that gives its name to the quintessential cheese of the mountain pastures. Gamoneu cheese (smoked and made with three kinds of milk) is, along with Cabrales, the most sought-after dairy product in Asturias. Along the way, we can also pick up a good wedge at one of the local cheese dairies. For example, in Demués itself, the village that marks both the beginning and end of the route.
We descend first along a cobbled path that leads us to the river. Even before crossing the first bridge, we come across the first mill. We then continue among hazel and chestnut trees, leaving two more mills to our right. They are easy to recognize: small, rectangular buildings constructed of stone masonry and—when they still have it—with gabled wooden roofs.
We continued along the marked route, passing another wooden bridge, crossing the road, and proceeding along the path, which now runs parallel to a wall until we reached the Trillón stable. Opposite it are the remains of another mill, and nearby is a beautiful waterfall. At this point, we had the option of returning the same way or completing our hike with an extra climb to the village of Gamonéu de Onís, taking the first ascending path to our right.
Interesting information
Start and end of the route: Demués
Length: 4 km or 6.7 km (if you go up to Gamonéu)
Approximate time: 2 / 3 hours (if you go up to Gamonéu)
Type of route: Circular
Ascent difference: 255 m (440 with optional ascent to Gamonéu)
Descent drop: 255 m (440 with optional ascent to Gamonéu)
Maximum altitude: 423 m (Demués) or 468 (Gamonéu)
It is recommended to bring enough water for the entire route, since there are no sources of drinking water during the tour. There is a fountain in Demués, where the march begins.
It is essential to carry a walking stick to go down from Demués, slippery even in summer (don't forget your bathing suit on very hot days!).
Text: © Ramón Molleda for asturias.com
