Tourist routes like the one through the mills of Ribadesella remind us that in the Middle Ages, after the replacement of human power with water power, watermills were no ordinary thing. Harnessing the energy of the rivers, they supplied entire regions with flour from various grains . The production of these mills increased from the 17th century onwards thanks to the expansion of corn cultivation, brought from the Americas. Their role as a cornerstone of the local economy , as well as a refuge always hidden and nestled among the riverbanks, transformed the mills into objects of legend, especially regarding rumors of love affairs and sinful dealings that took place within their walls.
In Ribadesella, we can relive those times by seeing firsthand how these mills work and appreciating their high density along the banks of the Tresmonte stream. We can even observe their mechanisms, as one of them is operational and ready to turn its millstones if we activate a valve that releases a powerful flow of water. Afterward, we can enter the mill and operate its levers to grind a handful of flour to take home as a souvenir.
Ribadesella Water Route: Where does the route of the mills begin?
The route to get here begins in the village of Cuevas del Agua, where we'll leave the car. We follow the track that leads us to the hamlet of Santiago, a few hundred meters away. The Sella River accompanies us on our left for quite some time. Once we reach the hamlet, we cross it towards the far end, where the Tresmonte stream flows. We'll need to close a small gate behind us.
Following the stream, we enter a narrow , lush valley dotted with flour mills, most of them in advanced ruin, except for the one known as Francisco's Mill. Just past this mill, the path climbs to reach the track leading to the hamlet of Tresmonte.
The route is also a botanical exercise , as we'll discover a wide array of native trees in a short distance. Our walk takes about an hour each way . It's an easy hike, rich in both culture and nature, and very rewarding. It can be enjoyed in any season if the weather is good.
The Cuevona de Cuevas del Agua
We usually call an artificially created underground passage a tunnel. When the tunnel is… Read more
Other hiking trails in the area
Taking this stroll as an excuse, we can embark on slightly longer routes that start from here . If we continue along the path we came on, we'll reach the village of Tresmonte . This small village, now inhabited by only one family, is a fine example of the area's vernacular architecture and is known for being the birthplace of Manuel Fernández Juncos, a champion of Spanish in Puerto Rico against the advance of English and a driving force behind press freedom in that country. In this forgotten hamlet, which once produced many children and a few illustrious figures, we'll feel the pleasant, yet nostalgic, sensation of the passage of time in those Asturian villages that have become ghost towns. Corners laden with stories and memories that only their last inhabitants, now scattered throughout towns and cities, can recall.
From Tresmonte you will go back down the track until you find a deviation to the left that you will follow until you find another crossroad. In this place we must decide for one of the two variants:
Option 1: deviation to the right: you descend quickly towards the town of Caves.
Option 2: to the left you go up to the Colu Moru, from where you can see unbeatable panoramic views of the coast of Ribadesella and its surroundings, as well as an important part of the Picos de Europa.
Text: © Ramón Molleda for asturias.com
