Reaching Vega de Urriellu isn't too difficult. We'll do it via a well-marked and safe path . A must-do hike for any serious mountaineer. The route to the world-famous base of Urriellu doesn't present any major technical difficulties except for its elevation gain, close to 1000 meters, so we'll need to exert a moderate amount of effort.
To this must be added the long duration of the excursion , about eight hours round trip.
The trail to Naranjo de Bulnes is marked by the National Park as route PR-PNPE 21. Years ago, parts of this route were difficult and dangerous, but in 1986 the worst sections were improved and made safe. However, in winter, with snow or ice, it becomes quite challenging , suitable only for experienced mountaineers skilled in winter techniques (crampons and ice axe).
Start point
We'll start from the Collado Pandébano parking area or from the village of Sotres . The best option is to start from Pandébano, where there's a parking area. However, there are only 64 spaces available for hikers—not counting those reserved for livestock farmers, rangers, or mountain guides. That may seem like a lot, but it isn't. In the summer season, they fill up very quickly . Sometimes, even getting up very early doesn't guarantee a spot. It's a regulated parking area with controlled access and capacity.
Leaving your car anywhere else in the vicinity is punishable by considerable fines; overnight stays in motorhomes or tents are also not allowed in this area.
The other option is to park in Sotres , although this will lengthen our walk by about 10 extra kilometers.
Sotres, the highest and most exemplary village 2024
Climbing to Sotres is a must for landscape lovers and many hikers... Read more
It is advisable to plan this route more easily during the months of June or September (without crowds or excessive heat).
Sotres – Vega de Urriellu Route
These are the details of the route:
Route type: Linear (round trip the same route)
Total distance: 20 km from Sotres (13 km if we start in Pandébano)
Time: about 8 hours
Approximate difference in altitude: 1.106 meters (if you leave the car in Pandebano, it is reduced to 900)
These would be the sections into which we can divide the route.
1- Sotres – Pandébano (50 minutes)
Essential: Get up as early as possible and set off early. The Pandébano Pass, our first destination, is a beautiful natural area located about 5 kilometers from Sotres. Leaving the village, we head towards the Duje River valley. After about a kilometer, we come across a group of cabins known as the Invernales del Texu . Here, we cross the river via the Moyeyeres bridge. The path then climbs steeply to the Cuaceya pass, levels out, and further on crosses the Canero stream. From the mountain pasture of the same name, we ascend along the hillside to the Pandébano Pass (1212 m). It took us almost an hour to get there. The parking area mentioned earlier is located at the end of this track.
From this point, the vision of the Naranjo looming above the first ramps, or the Neverón del Urrriellu and the Picos Albos, is already very close, although deceptive. At the bottom of the hill we see a group of cabins that form the Tenerosa sheepfold. That's where we headed.
2- Collado Pandébano – Majada de la Tenerosa – Collado Vallejo (40 minutes)
We advance along a well-marked path towards the left wall of the valley. In a short time we arrive at Majada de la Tenerosa (1315 m). Here there is a small shelter, a source of fresh water shelter and cabins run by shepherds where we can even buy a little Cabrales cheese. The path ascends from this point, bordering a forest above, running along the slope of Mount de la Varera. Below we see the town of Bulnes and slowly we gain more altitude until we reach a new promontory with wonderful views, it is Collado Vallejo or Valleyu (1540 m).
3- Collado Vallejo – Las Traviesas – Urriellu Refuge (2 hours and 30 minutes)
From here the rocky landscape begins to dominate, including the profile of the north face of Picu Urrriellu that will not abandon us until we reach the refuge. The area we are in resembles a huge, deep pit opened in the rock itself. In the past, this section of the route was very complicated, until in the 80s it was conditioned, patiently carving the stone and resulting in a much more comfortable and easy to follow path. In any case, to our right we are leaving a considerable vertical drop and we must advance with respect. In winter this step is dangerous due to the risk of avalanches and ice accumulation on the road.
The final 400 meters of ascent to the refuge follow this gully, the Traviesas, and the eastern edge of the Jou Lluengu. Once past the Traviesas, we reach an area of large boulders that have broken off from the buttresses of Naranjo de Bulnes. The slope here is steeper, with continuous switchbacks. This section is known as " the zigzags " and requires a final push to reach our destination.
We finally arrived at Vega de Urriellu (1960 m), where the refuge is located , at the foot of the western face of Naranjo de Bulnes. Here we enjoyed the best views of Urriellu and fully felt its powerful pull. We could replenish our supplies at the spring next to the refuge, which flows with incredibly fresh water from the Picos de Europa. We spent a good while enjoying this fascinating place before turning back along the same path.
The base of Naranjo and the Urriellu Refuge
Even though it's not a summit, Vega de Urriellu gives us that magnificent feeling of reaching the top. We're almost 2000 meters high , in an incredible location that offers close-up views of Asturias' most magical mountain. But we also get breathtaking views of other great peaks in the Urrieles range, as well as a horizon that stretches all the way to the Cantabrian Sea.
The official name of the Urriellu refuge is "Refugio Delgado Úbeda ." It has 96 beds , making it the largest in the Picos de Europa . It offers food and drinks and is staffed from March 15th to December 15th; the rest of the time, a bivouac area with six bunk beds and blankets is available. It was built as a base for mountaineers drawn to the Naranjo de Bulnes peak. Over the years, it has become a mecca for Spanish mountaineering and for thousands of climbers from around the world. It is also used as an overnight stop or rest area for treks in the Central Massif.
Interesting information
Any excursion in the Picos de Europa requires prior planning and adequate information about weather conditions, alerts, regulations and any other doubts that may affect our purpose. The most advisable thing to reach Picu Urriellu is to consult official sources or contact the Picos de Europa National Park service telephone numbers directly.
You can find answers to all your questions at this URL: Contact Picos de Europa National Park
Photographs: © San Nicolás Mountain Group
