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Quirós

Quirós

Landscape and memory of inland Asturias

Quirós

Quirós is one of the most distinctive areas in Asturias. The landscape here is not only natural, but also a rich tapestry of ethnography. This municipality, located in the Camín Real de la Mesa region, boasts livestock villages, medieval heritage, mining remnants, forests, high mountain passes, and some of the most sought-after hiking trails in Asturias.

Between the Bear's Trail, the Ventana Pass, the Agüeria Passes, the ancient yew tree of Bermiego, the climbing in El Llano or the industrial and traditional memory of San Salvador, Quirós opens itself to the traveler with a good number of arguments.

Photographs: © Manuel Intriago on Flickr




Latitude: 43.1583977 Length: -5.9708977
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Quirós is not a large municipality in terms of population, but it is rich in attractions. It covers 208 km² in the south-central part of Asturias, within the region of the Camín Real de la MesaA council of 1.150 inhabitants (barely 5,5 per km²) spread across 13 parishes and 63 villages; from Bárzana, the capital of the municipality, to the beautiful village of Bermiego and its Yew tree over 1.000 years old.

With a livestock tradition and a mining past, this municipality offers us a vast ethnographic heritageHermitages and mountain pastures, rural paths, abundant hiking trails, and breathtaking climbs. Its domains extend from the gentle foothills of the valley villages to the Protected Landscape of the Sierra del Aramo or the austere heights of Las Ubiñas.

In Las Ubiñas – La Mesa

Around 40% of its surface area exceeds 1.200 meters in altitude, the highest point being the North Fontan, with 2.417 meters. Other recognizable peaks include The Fariñentu, of 2.147 meters, The Cicada, of 2.071 meters, and the Gamoniteiru, from 1.786 or the ever-present Peña Rueda2.155 meters high, from whose vicinity the Ricabo and Lindes rivers descend, joining at Santa Marina to form a new river: the Quirós. The latter opens a large corridor that bears its name; the splendid Quirós Valley.

A large part of this municipality belongs to Natural Park of Las Ubiñas-La MesaRecognized by UNESCO as a Biosphere Reserve in 2012, this is a pristine Cantabrian mountain range where mature forests, biodiversity, villages, and a long-standing human presence coexist. The protected area of ​​this park covers just over 45.000 hectares, with more than thirty peaks exceeding 2.000 meters. In the Quirós area, the following stand out: Ports of Agüeria, Lindes Valley beech forestthe high grasslands and the glacial and karst landscape that surrounds the Ubiña massif.

Ethnography in the Quirós Valley

But Quirós is not only a collection of panoramic views, it is also a collection of ancestral stories. Megalithic Necropolis of La CobertoriaOn the border between Lena and Quirós, it preserves tumuli and dolmens dating from the 4th to the 2nd millennium BC. The complex includes around six megaliths.

Quirós

En the dolmen of Mata'l CasareAt an altitude of about 1.200 meters, a ring of gold strips worked with a punch was found, one of the first pieces of goldsmithing located in Asturias that is kept in the Archaeological Museum of Asturias.

As history progressed, the churches, hermitages, manor houses, mills, washhouses, granaries, and bread stores gradually left behind a different kind of heritage map. Within the Romanesque style, the following stand out: the church of San Pedro de ArrojoIt is considered one of the most valuable architectural pieces in the municipality. Its origins date back to the first third of the 13th century and it preserves mural paintings from the 15th century.

The Quirosan community adapted to the environment with elevated constructions such as the granary or the breadbasketThe latter became more widespread after the arrival of corn from the Americas. Popular decoration, mixing geometric patterns, human figures, and animals, is present in these granaries. The villages of Aciera, Casares, Coañana, Cienfuegos, and Vallín are large open-air traditional museums.

Quirós

It stands out especially BermiegoThis village boasts 32 granaries and raised granaries, some very old and well-maintained. Its narrow lanes, traditional farmhouses, carved woodwork, fountains, and mills create a quintessential Asturian scene. Nestled at the foot of the Sierra del Aramo mountain range, this village also offers a sweeping panoramic view of the valley.

Sierra del Aramo

Sierra del Aramo

The sharp relief of the Aramo contrasts with the smooth contour of the wisdom teeth that surround it. In the … Read more

The other major historical layer of Quirós is industrial. In the 19th century, the iron and coal They transformed the valley with mines, washing plants, loading docks, a mining railway, and the blast furnaces of Torales, where molten iron ingots was produced. Part of that memory survives in the Quirós Ethnographic MuseumLocated in San Salvador, next to the old kilns and inaugurated in 1998. The museum allows you to understand the two souls of the council: the rural, with the traditional house, the hearth, the stable, the granary and the trades; and the industrial, with remains of walls, kilns and galleries of the old factory built in the 1860s by the Quirós Coal Society.

Nature trails in Quirós

He too route of the mining railway During his time in the council, he ended up shaping the very popular Path of the BearThe section that leads towards the Valdemurio reservoir (built in the sixties for hydroelectric power generation) and the population of Santa MarinaIt is one of the most beautiful. Ending next to the old coal loading dock of The CribuIt bears witness to a time when the Xagarín, San Salvador, and other mines were exploited in the area. Coal deposits are documented from 1862, and iron deposits from 1869.

For walking, Quirós offers routes for all audiences and with a lot of ethnographic and landscape content.

The Route of the Xanas It is one of the most popular gorges in central Asturias. A route popularly known as the "mini Cares," it is 9 kilometers long, of medium difficulty, and has 437 meters of elevation gain. The path was carved into the rock in the mid-20th century to connect Pedroveya and Dosango with the Trubia Valley; it crosses a gorge with walls up to 100 meters high, tunnels, and walkways.

On the way to León, the Royal Road of Puerto Ventana, linked today to the Relic RouteThe road crossed Quirós between the Aramo and Sobia mountain ranges, following one of the great historical routes between the Meseta Central and Oviedo. Tradition tells that, in times of war, the Holy Ark was taken to safety in the Asturian mountains, specifically in the Monsacrobefore becoming definitively linked to the Holy Chamber of Oviedo Cathedral. This itinerary, also related to the Royal Road of La MesaIt is around 40 kilometers long and requires about 16 hours of walking.

It makes special sense in that context. Ricabo or RicaoThe parish of Quiros is located at the start of the old road up to Puerto Ventana. Today, part of this road is also a popular route for mountain bikers. From Ricabo, you can also take the turnoff towards BueidaFrom there, the route continues along the historic track to the start of the Agüeria Mountain Pass trail. The itinerary passes through places like Los Garrafes, the Las Infiestas mountain pasture, the Chaseiro meadow, and the Lingleo or Fontes pass, at 1.623 meters. At this point, the landscape opens up abruptly, and to the east appears... Peña RuedaTo the west, the walls of the Devil's Orchards y The Ranchón, and below stretches the limestone and livestock-farming paradise of the Ports of Agüeria, one of the most beautiful mountain landscapes in Quirós and all of Asturias.

The council also offers great opportunities for climbing and mountain enthusiasts. climbing school Quirós is one of the leading figures in Asturias, with the Llano Refugein the village of the same name, as a key point. At its base rise large limestone walls that began to be climbed in the 1960s and which, since the 1980s, have consolidated the area as one of the great climbing destinations in the Principality. Specialized guides speak of some 20 sectors and more than 300 routes, with modern equipment and favorable orientation for climbing for a good part of the year, especially in spring and autumn.

How to get to Quirós

To get to Quirós, the main reference point is Bárzana, capital of the council.

From Oviedo/UviéuThe usual access route is via Trubia, Proaza, and Caranga. Take the AS-228 towards Proaza and, in Caranga Baxu, connect with the AS-229, which enters Quirós through the Hoces de Valdemurio gorge until reaching Bárzana. The approximate distance from Oviedo is 37,5 km.

From León Or, to reach the Meseta Central plateau, one option is to take the A-66 to Pola de Lena and from there take the AS-230, climbing to the Alto de La Cobertoria pass and descending towards Santa Marina and Bárzana. From Pola de Lena, it's approximately 20 km.

Within the councilThe main road is the AS-229, which runs through Bárzana and connects several key points in the valley. To get to Ricabo/Ricao, take the QU-3, and for areas like Lindes or Cortes, use the corresponding local roads from the Santa Marina area.

© Text: © Ramón Molleda for asturias.com
Photographs: © Manuel Intriago on Flickr



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