Located just outside Cangas de Onís , at an approximate altitude of 750 meters above sea level, the viewpoint stands in the Llano del Cura recreational area . This spot, while not featured in all guidebooks, boasts views that rival the most famous in the region. To reach it, simply take the path that starts next to the Cangas de Onís cemetery, skirting it on a gentle incline that, in just fifteen minutes, will lead you to a breathtaking natural spectacle. You don't need to be a mountaineer or adventurer; the route is accessible to anyone who enjoys a short walk and is ready to be amazed. Walking is preferable to driving , although if you're planning a picnic, it might be better to drive.
From here, the Sella River unfolds in its descent towards the Cantabrian Sea with the serenity of one who knows he is the protagonist, bordering the city that was, in its day, the first capital of the Kingdom of Asturias, and which still preserves in its streets the trace of a glorious past.
What awaits at the summit is not just another viewpoint, but a natural balcony overlooking the Sella River and its rich history . From here, the town of Cangas de Onís unfolds in all its splendor, its Roman bridge standing out among the houses, as if at any moment Don Pelayo himself might ride across it, sword raised. To the north, the Sueve mountain range rises with its unmistakable profile, that massif which, in its arrogance, seems to deny the obvious fact that beyond it lies the sea. To the south, the western massif of the Picos de Europa rises with its timeless presence: a challenge to logic and a reminder that Asturias is a land of mountains before it is a land of men.
The Llano del Cura recreational area
Those who reach Llano del Cura do so for different reasons. Some seek a rest on their way to the peaks, others wish to reconnect with silence, and many arrive with no other purpose than to lose themselves for a while in contemplation. For all, the viewpoint offers a welcoming space, with wooden benches and tables strategically placed for hikers to enjoy a snack. The area is equipped with barbecues, fountains, and ample parking , making it an ideal place to stop and enjoy a day outdoors.
But what truly makes this place unique is its resurgence from oblivion. Until just a few years ago, the Llano del Cura recreational area languished in neglect, a victim of apathy and ignorance. However, thanks to local initiatives, it has been restored and improved , allowing visitors to rediscover a viewpoint that was always there, patiently waiting for someone to look down from its heights once more. Furthermore, several hiking trails begin from this location, such as the one leading to the village of Següenco , a corner of rural Asturias that preserves its essence and is well worth a visit in itself.
A place to return to
At a time when travel seems reduced to lists of "must-see places" and a race to accumulate photographs without pausing to look, Llano del Cura represents an invitation to pause, wonder, and reflection. Here, there are no lines of tourists, no strident signs, no cafes selling souvenirs. There is only nature in its purest form, the distant sound of the Sella River, and the echo of a past that has never quite left.
Text: © Ramón Molleda for asturias.com
