We are talking about a mountain range that stands enormously above the mining valleys, straddling the councils of Laviana and Aller. A succession of peaks and needles that syncretize into a higher and sharper spur, visible from many areas of central Asturias. Reaching the summit we find a 360 panoramic view of the central mountain range, we can even see the sea. A vision that captivates and makes mountaineers repeat the excursion over and over again.
The immediate surroundings of this mountain are already idyllic: beech and oak groves, cabins and cattle in the brañas, a crossroads of paths and hundreds of colossal rocks with whimsical shapes. Rocks like the one that has given rise to Peña Mea Porthole. Powerful magnet for mountaineers and photography enthusiasts; one of those places called "instagrammable" because it serves as an unparalleled setting for our selfies. But we should not be fooled, reaching this point is not a piece of cake. Climbing up here is not recommended for people who suffer from vertigo and also requires a moderate effort: four hours of walking, round trip, on steep slopes.
We must always be attentive to the weather reports and have a lot of respect for the mountains. Peña Mea is not just anything.
How to get to the Ojo de Buey de Peña Mea
On our ascent we will come across that enormous hole that goes through the limestone as if by magic. Known by locals as «the Furacón» or «the Finestra Chest», is more than 15 meters in diameter and is the result of an intense and curious karst erosion. Titanic hollow, gigantic window to the Asturian landscape 1300 meters of altitude. To look at it we must travel a long way from two possible starting points: the town of Pelúgano (Aller) or the area of Les Campes (Laviana).
The population of Pelugano It houses one of the largest concentrations of hórreos and paneras in all of Asturias - no less than 37 in total. From here to the porthole we will spend about 2 hours along a well-marked but demanding path. In the upper neighborhood of Pelúgano (about 600 meters above sea level) there is a church near which we can leave the car. The route has no loss. After leaving behind a small braña and the refreshing spring of El Truncu, we continue gaining altitude up to 1000 meters around the «Cerréu». Here we change the track for a path that will become steeper each time until the base of the Canal of the Caves. Seen from below the climb is imposing. This is the most expensive section without a doubt, about 200 meters of hard ascent that takes us to the foot of the Arcón.
The second option to get closer to the porthole part of Pola de Laviana. By car we headed to Villoria and before reaching San Antonio de Tolivia we turned left towards Fresnedo, where we took a track towards Les Campes and the hermitage of the Visitation (890 meters above sea level). From this place we can already see the great mass of Peña Mea above us. To reach the Chest It will take approximately an hour and a half. We follow a track through trees to the «Collado Pelúgano», a junction point with the routes that go up the Allerana slope (like the one we described previously). At this hill the path forks. We take the left branch towards Cerréu, where we find the first signs that mark the path towards the Canal of the Caves and from there to Furacon. The route, like the previous one, is of medium difficulty. Our effort will be greater or less depending on our state of form.
No matter how many times we have seen it in photographs, this great rock arch will captivate us. You can access its rear area by gaining a few meters of altitude and going around it along the Lavianese side, although the terrain is quite slippery and you have to be very careful.
Summiting Peña Mea
From the Ojo de Buey we only have 250 meters of climbing left to reach the top. The trail is marked with paint marks, it does not have complex steps but it does have more sections of steep slope. After passing the crest of the rock, to the left we discovered a large cave, known as the Iglesiona by the locals. We continue advancing along a twisted path. The last slopes, many of them hidden from view, will make us impatient. The final arreón is authentically alpine and should be enjoyed calmly. The final panorama is an unbeatable prize. On clear days, looking towards the East we see Corbellosu or Pico Torres. A little further away Peña Ten and the Picos de Europa. Turning towards other coordinates we sighted all the Alleran peaks, many of them above 2000 meters; also the Sierra del Aramo and Mostayal, including Peña Ubiña and Peña Rueda.
If we have risen from The countryside CAN return via an alternative route which turns our excursion into a circular one. We will descend along the north face towards Donango, crossing a wooded area, and then a small hill on the way to "la Boyica", then descending through a beautiful beech forest until reaching some fields above the Collada Doñango. From this hill we will need just over 2 kilometers of track to return to Les Campes. There we will end the excursion.
Interesting information
This mountain does not have an easy climb by any of its slopes and in adverse weather it can become a dangerous route. The excursion requires a certain physical condition and technical expertise, and you can even use your hands to overcome the steep slopes, especially if we ascend from the alanera slope (Pelúgano).
Whether we ascend from Pelúgano or from Les Campes, We will have to overcome a difference in altitude of more than 800 meters.
Between round trip we will use a time of no less than 4 and a half hours.
Recommendations: It is advisable to carry enough water (there are two sources along the way to supply yourself). Wear appropriate footwear and comfortable clothing. In summer, don't forget sunscreen and a cap as shade is scarce. Always check the weather and avoid taking the excursion in fog, rain or wind.
Photographs: © San Nicolás Mountain Group
