The path of the Invisible Valley

The path of the Invisible Valley, in the environment of Saint Roch of Acebal (Llanes) is a route that does not shout its presence, which is invisible because it does not reveal itself immediately. The route is inspired by the book "The Invisible Valley" by the local writer Miguel Angel Galguera. We can read different fragments of his novel on lecterns scattered throughout the route, in which the author conveys the idea of ​​a fascinating place, but without leaving aside the harsh reality of its inhabitants. The path itself (designed by the Cultural Association “El Perru de San Roque”) seeks the same: to explain to us at all times the roots and dreams of those who inhabit this valley, whose real name is the “Mijares Valley”.

The route also speaks through the paths that cross the forest, or when it approaches the mouth of natural caves, or when passing through places of great ethnographic value, with old wash houses, stone bridges, fountains and hidden chapels. We will also come across sculptures camouflaged in the landscape, carved in stone and wood, with human or animal shapes, emerging along the path like primitive totems. “Stop, look and feel,” they tell the walker.

Touring the Invisible Valley

This magical itinerary covers approximately 12 kilometers in a circular circuit. San Roque del Acebal is the starting and returning point. A pleasant walk, with hardly any unevenness, which connects the different neighborhoods of this town. The path is good but it is not an accessible route, nor comfortable for child seats. It is marked with specially designed signs, with green arrows and the initials “VI” for Valle Invisible. There are also many other types of signs and more spontaneous landmarks painted on rocks or tree trunks.. However, there are specific points along the route that are confusing, so It is advisable Download the track of the route.

We set off. Soon we find information panels at the first point of interest on the route: The Malateria of San Lázaro. Malatería is what the old leper colonies were known as in Asturias. Part of the structure of the building is still standing here. The sick people of that time obtained their water from the nearby “Fuente de los malatos” (Source of the Malatos), ringing the bell to prevent the rest of the neighbours from approaching them.

We take a detour to the right towards the “Cuera Viewpoint”” and the orchards of San Roque del Acebal. Our next information stop is the large panel of the “Fuente Antona”. Then we head south, entering a path full of vegetation towards the neighborhood of “Cañamal” and “Casar Fountain”. A very beautiful corner where the wooden figures of a she-wolf and her cubsThis is the first of many other carvings that we will find along the way, all made by the genius of two local artists: Tony Llorente (wood carvings) and Tony Noriega (stone carvings).

We left Cañamal behind on the way to the neighborhood of “The Somoda”. A kilometer long walk through a dense and beautiful forest. Afterwards, the wide path takes us in a short time to the information panel of the “Cagalin River””. According to the photographs on display, this spot was once a meeting place for washerwomen. The river disappears, swallowed up by a cave, but before that it moves the stones of an old mill.

We now take a steeper path, turning to the right. The forest greets us with a start: a family of foxes (foxes) watched us from the shadows, motionless; in reality they are carved in wood with great realism. We continued until we found a depression in the forest and descended cautiously towards the mouth of the “Collubina Cave”; an entrance that promises depths but we will not dare to explore beyond what is prudent. We continue towards the neighborhood of “The Cuetu”From there, a short paved road takes us to the “Well Santiago” and at the junction with “The Royal Path” and the Camino de Santiago. We leave the asphalt as we enter “The Alley of Souls”. Among centuries-old trees we find a small oratory dedicated to the souls in purgatory, where lepers came to collect alms under the protection of the night. An ancient inscription in stone encouraged pilgrims to charity: “If good fortune awaits you on the journey where you go, you will give alms to the souls.”

We resume the path, advancing between the N-634 on the right and the A-8 on the left. We cross meadows with cattle until we come across a tunnel under the road, which we cross. We now enter the mountain in search of the “Cave of the Births”, just 300 metres away. We see its monumental entrance crossed by a stream. The interior rooms are fascinating for their size, but as we are not speleologists we will not go any further than is convenient.

We return to the main path, next to the dry stream that comes out of the cave, and we arrive again at the N-634. From there we take the “Path of Santacina”, a route that alternates forest clearings and stretches of eucalyptus trees. We circle the “Coradiellas Estate” and we descend towards the “Irrigation of the Mills”. Two ancient watermills await us. One of them has an information panel that explains the mechanisms and operation of these medieval devices. We can also read a poem by the local poet Pancho from the Cane. We continued along the train tracks along a wide, wet path until we reached the “Rugarcia Fountain“, along the way we are surprised by a pair of "wolves" howling. The source is a beautiful spring, and the water flows over a slurry of sand. Soon we turn off to approach “The Little Bridge”, a small Romanesque stone bridge. We are on our way to  “The Canton” where we will come across the imposing figure of “The Peasant” next to the “Lavaderu”. “In memory of our fathers, grandfathers and all the men of this town,” reads an inscription in stone.

We follow the signs for the “VI” and turn south. First on asphalt, then on a dirt road to the right, moving towards “The Cotera Somanta”The path, dark and slippery, gives way to a gravel track that climbs through meadows towards “The Santiago Devil”. We then descend along a path to the houses south of San Roque. We arrive at the grove of “The Valleya” , and from there we descend towards the entrance of the “Toyu Irrigation” among moss-covered trees. Nearby is the carving of a fabulous mother bear with her bards.

L'Escaniellu waterfall

The trail narrows as we approach the “L'Escañiellu” waterfall, one of the most outstanding and attractive places on the itinerary. It is the corner most captured in photographs, more instagrammable and more shared on social networks. Without a doubt, this is one of the main incentives to undertake this route. If the waterfall is active, then all expectations are far exceeded. Along the way, the murmur of the water falling into the pool envelops us and anticipates what is to come. When we arrive at this enchanting spot, time seems to stop. The figure of a xana, the fairy of Asturian mythology, stands out with astonishing precision on the edge of the pool, perfectly integrated into the wooded environment that constitutes its natural habitat. For an instant, fantasy comes to life, blurring the line between reality and imagination.

It is difficult to start off again and leave this magical corner. We go up a small hill to a cattle crossing and descend along a “caleyón” between stables and houses, until a turn to the left takes us to the last panels of the route: the one of the “The Pozón Road” y “The Picu Castiellu”. We arrived at the neighborhood of “The Prida” where the nature trail ends. We pass by the “Lavender Covielles”, with its fountain and drinking fountain, crowned by the sculpture of a woman with a load of clothes on her head. In front of the village church, we find the eleventh panel of the day: A collage of photos of the inhabitants of San Roque del AcebalThis reminds us that every journey, like life itself, is a sum of shared stories.

How to get there and recommendations:

• Access:San Roque del Acebal is located a few kilometres from Llanes. From the A-8 motorway, take the exit towards Andrín/San Roque. The village has parking areas.
• Parking: We can leave the car in the local service station area.
• Recommendations:
  • Wear comfortable, waterproof shoes.
  • Supply water and some light food, as there are no restaurants along the way.
  • Flashlight if you want to explore the caves, but be careful not to disturb the natural surroundings.
• Technical characteristics:
  • Length: 12 km.
  • Slope: Practically zero.
  • Duration: 3-4 hours depending on pace and stops.
  • Difficulty: Easy, suitable for families with children and pets.