The Beyu Pen Mythological Route , in the beautiful municipality of Amieva , is nothing less than an enchanted forest that holds the spirits of legendary figures and casts a spell on the hiker. Its uniqueness compared to other theatrical trails lies in the fact that human intervention has barely touched its creation. As we walk, we glimpse sinister shapes, faces lurking in the thickets, fascinating tree trunks, and fantastical rocks. Xanas, trasgos, pesadiellos, busgosos, nuberos, and bruxas are beings that, in this case, are defined by the very nature of the forest. The rock and tree formations have been used, with no more help than a little paint, to highlight their contours and silhouettes.
We ascend through the gorge, and each of us must do our best to discover each and every one of these camouflaged characters. The cuélebre , which guards treasures and Xanes (fairies), protects wealth and fertility, and also devours livestock and men, could easily be disguised as a fallen tree. The nuberu , which amuses itself by causing storms and tempests, hurling lightning bolts at animals, and ruining crops with hail, is embodied in the burnt trunk of a chestnut tree. The busgosu , covered in mofu (moss), hides in forests and caves and abducts women; when we realize it, it is behind us, carved into the rock.
The "hidden identity" of this enchanted forest is reinforced by its spectacular vegetation. It's no coincidence that in Asturian, a "Beyu" is simply a deep gorge or river canyon , a narrow, humid area that, during the rainy season, reveals impressive waterfalls. Within the lushness of this "Beyu," the forest is native, composed of chestnut, oak, and hazel trees . The karst formations are whimsical throughout, and one can see "les cuerries" or "Cuerres ," stone corrals that were once used to store chestnuts and protect them from forest animals.
We arrived at the secluded village of Pen , a place that boasts a rich ethnographic heritage, including the sundial on the house in Fondón, and its numerous granaries; one of them is listed as the largest granary in Asturias . It's easy to imagine the legends passed down through the centuries within these houses, whispered by the warmth of the hearth. There, the magic and superstition of the magical beings we've encountered on our journey are preserved.
One final attraction along the route, which we can easily visit before starting or on the way back, in the nearby town of Santillán, is the Karst Interpretation Center . There, we find a model explaining how water forms the karst cavities that are so prevalent in the region. The center also specializes in rock art, featuring a life-size reproduction of a local cave.
How to get to the Beyu Pen Mythological Route?
Very easy. From Cangas de Onís, take the N-625 (Pontón road) following the course of the Sella River south. 10 km away, just before reaching the village of Santillán, turn right onto the AS-261 towards Beleño and Sellaño. About 500 meters further on, leave your car in a parking lot at the Trambesagües Recreational Area next to the road. The route itself connects the famous Camín de la Reina with the village of Pen. You can turn around at any time.
But if we decide to go to the village of Pen, the entire excursion, round trip, takes around two and a half or three hours.
Above the recreational area, where we have parked the car, a comfortable caleya (road) goes down to the confluence of the river Sella and the Ponga river where a footbridge allows access to the route from the town of Santianes. Some 400 meters later we reach the river that descends through the forest of the Beyu Pen and that we will cross by a wooden bridge. Here begins the true Mythological Route, the sign says so. If we follow the course of a stream always present, we will not have major complications. When leaving the foz a new bridge is reached. It would only be necessary to climb up to the nearby village of Pen. In the end it is a vertical drop of the walk has not exceeded the 242 meters.
Amieva Karst Interpretation Center.
Location: Santillán (a village in the eastern Asturian municipality of Amieva, whose capital, Sames, is 1,5 km away), at the crossroads of the Pontón road with the access to Ponga.
Information and reservations telephone number: 985 944 832
Opening hours: June to September: Friday, Saturday and Sunday, 11am to 14pm and 16:30pm to 19pm
Easter, long weekends and holidays: from 11:00 a.m. to 17:00 p.m.
Rest of the year: by prior reservation
Groups: prior reservation required.
Tourist Office Santillán (Amieva)
Hours: Friday and Saturday from 10:00 a.m. to 16:30 p.m., Sundays from 10:00 a.m. to 12:00 p.m. Tel. 650 61 77 91
Text: © Ramón Molleda for asturias.com
