This place has everything you'd expect from a good hike: a well-marked trail, memorable scenery, and a final panoramic view that perfectly rewards your effort. The difference is that in Ordiales, all of this is amplified and takes on a whole new dimension. This route is a classic of Asturian hiking and mountaineering , and the viewpoint itself is one of the National Park's most spectacular panoramic vistas. No photograph can truly capture the views from here , because no image can convey the feeling of being there: the emptiness below, the pure air filling your lungs, and the vastness of the horizon stretching out without limits.
On this balcony suspended in the vertigo-inducing western massif of the Picos de Europa , where chamois roam along the precipices and clouds often lie below the hiker's feet, rest the remains of Pedro Pidal, Marquis of Villaviciosa, the driving force behind the creation of the National Park and a pioneer in the defense of the Asturian mountains. Perhaps out of respect for his legacy, it's worth remembering that this route is not a game. If we choose the wrong day, fog or rain will reduce visibility and make the final stretch dangerous. And although it's a popular route, we mustn't forget that the mountains demand respect and don't tolerate carelessness. It's essential to check weather forecasts, wear appropriate mountain clothing and footwear, and be in good physical condition.
To the Ordiales Viewpoint from Lagos
The route begins in the Buferrera area , next to the Pedro Pidal Visitor Center, near Lake Enol. However, many hikers prefer to start in Pandecarmen , a small parking area a couple of kilometers further up, at the end of a dirt track closed to traffic during peak season. The trail marked PR-PNPE-5 leads first to Vega de Huerto , which takes about an hour to reach, following a gently ascending slope. It's an easy first stage, crossing beautiful mountain meadows with open views of the lakes, on the way to the first limestone cliffs. We arrive at the meadow, where a fresh spring flows and we find the Pozo del Alemán (German's Well ), a small pool about three or four meters in diameter that owes its name to Roberto Frassinelli (1811-1887), better known as "the German of Corao." Frassinelli was a very peculiar character: born in Germany, he eventually settled in Asturias, where he distinguished himself as a self-taught scholar, amateur archaeologist, and great lover of the mountains; one of the first to fall in love with the Picos de Europa. He often bathed in this area during his excursions, which is why he adopted his nickname.
From Vega de Huerto, the trail gently climbs towards Vega la Piedra . Beyond this point, the landscape becomes rockier, and the ascent continues gradually. In less than an hour, you'll reach the Vegarredonda Refuge , situated at 1.420 meters. This is a key point on this route and many others that delve into the Cornión massif. Opened in 1949 and renovated several times since, it offers beds, a dining room, and a warden's service, making it a safe place to spend the night or simply rest and recharge. It is, in a way, the natural gateway to the higher reaches of the Picos de Europa, and a meeting point for hikers heading to the Ordiales viewpoint and mountaineers seeking high and challenging peaks, such as Peña Santa (2596m).
The Vegarredonda mountain pasture marks the entrance to a more mountainous terrain, increasingly karst and offering ever-expanding panoramic views. We will gain altitude rapidly, winding our way to the Torga Plains , a welcome respite amidst the ascent: an open space with high-altitude meadows where animals still graze, signaling the approach of the final stretch. From here, the path continues to climb, and in a final section, it skirts the sheer cliffs to an exceptional scenic viewpoint: the Ordiales Viewpoint.
The Ordiales Viewpoint
The Ordiales viewpoint is impressive even before you reach it: the panorama is palpable in the air, and as you approach, that tingling sensation grows, anticipating something grand. Just a few more steps and the mountain abruptly ends, the landscape unfolding in overwhelming grandeur. We find ourselves on a natural ledge , a sharp cut in the mountain that plunges hundreds of meters into the void . The feeling is that of being at the edge of the world, with the fresh air on your face and a horizon that opens without limits; where it's not uncommon to see a golden eagle soaring , the undisputed ruler of these heights.
The view unfolds in a sweeping panorama. In the foreground, the steep slopes of the deep, verdant Angón Valley seem to stretch towards Amieva and the Ponga mountain range ; also in the foreground are Tiatordos and the Redes Natural Park. And if the day is clear, the reward is even greater: the distant Cantabrian Sea appears on the horizon, as if the mountains and the sea were joining hands.
This place is also a place of memory. Here , Pedro Pidal, Marquis of Villaviciosa , wished to rest forever. He was the same man who, in 1918, secured the creation of the Covadonga Mountain National Park , the precursor to the current Picos de Europa National Park. Noble by birth, but a mountaineer by conviction, he combined his passion for hunting and climbing with the vision that this landscape should be preserved. His choice of Ordiales as his tomb is no coincidence: it encapsulates, better than any other corner, the essence of the Picos de Europa, between the harshness of the rock and the grandeur of the landscape.
Technical characteristics of the route
This is an undisputed hiking classic in Asturias: a technically accessible route that goes far beyond a simple stroll.
Official name PR-PNPE-5: Route to the Ordiales Viewpoint
Total distance: 21 kilometers round trip from Buferrera.
Accumulated drop: approximately 1.000 positive meters.
Maximum altitude: 1.750 m
Medium Difficulty. Requires good footwear and basic fitness. Exposed sections.
Estimated duration: 7 to 8 hours round trip.
Tour type: Linear (return by the same route).
Signaling: Good (white and yellow PR beacons).
Text: © Ramón Molleda for asturias.com
