Spanning over 1.500 hectares (roughly half the size of Muniellos), this forest is the largest beech forest in Asturias and one of the largest on the entire Iberian Peninsula. This "fayeu" (beech forest) forms part of the Fuentes del Narcea, Degaña e Ibias Natural Park and is very close to the Muniellos Biosphere Reserve.
The village of Monasterio de Hermo , which gives its name to the forest, is a secluded spot steeped in legend. One of the most enchanting landscapes in southwestern Asturias.
Monasteries, covens and xanas
The village is located about 34 kilometers from the capital of Cangas del Narcea , in an area bordering the province of León. Situated at an altitude of over 1.000 meters, its population does not exceed 30 inhabitants. Here we find several traditional houses, some with stables, granaries, and yew trees, and others bearing coats of arms.
Its greatest treasure is the parish church, the remains of a monastery founded in the 7th century by Bishops Severinus and Ariulf, who were fleeing Muslim control in the south of the Iberian Peninsula. The church was renovated in the Late Middle Ages and boasts astonishing mural paintings. Among the most notable are depictions of death and Saint Michael vanquishing evil with his lance.
Legend has it that people from both sides of the provincial border avoided the Vega del Palo spring , especially at night , for in this meadow near the forest, witches danced and participated in sexual orgies with Satan's devils (who presided over the sabbaths incarnated as a goat). The dense, untamed, and "dark" forest had always inspired a primal fear in the inhabitants of these parts. They often used blessed laurel to treat strange wounds and scratches, attributing them to witch bites rather than natural scrapes from the dense vegetation.
There are also myths of Xanas in this area. A slender female figure would appear before the parishioners, hanging out a shimmering white wash. Until one daring neighbor ventured into her domain to steal a cloak she particularly liked. From then on, a voice from beyond the grave began to torment him: he would suffer a thousand torments. The thief had to entrust himself to the Virgin of Covadonga and offered her the cloak to escape the curse.
The Forest of Hermo
The Hermo Monastery Forest makes the entire area even more mysterious and unique. The fact that a beech forest of such dimensions can penetrate Muniellos, "oak territory," is already quite unusual. Moreover, we are talking about one of the most remarkable beech forests in the entire country. It stretches for ten kilometers along the northern slope of the Sierra de Degaña , on the left bank of the Narcea River. The sources of this great Asturian river are mapped at some of the nearby peaks, as well as in the valley of the former monastery itself.
When hikers set foot in this beech forest, it's as if they've stepped into a painting. The vibrancy of the colors is so breathtaking that even the best photographs can't do it justice. The undergrowth is very sparse due to the lack of light, the rocks are covered in moss, and the trees are laden with lichen , predominantly the species commonly known as old man's beard or goat's beard, which adds somber touches to many areas.
In the area closest to the source of the Narcea River, woodcocks can be observed relatively easily at dusk, and their calls sometimes coincide with those of the tawny owl . Many animals find shelter in its foliage, including—though unlikely, it's not impossible to see— bears.
Throughout its almost untouched expanse, the traces of human activity can be seen. Remnants of mines and the tracks built to access them and transport the ore (many decades ago) still remain. The Hermo beech forest, particularly rich in quality timber, although it hasn't been exploited for many years, provided raw material for some of the ships of the Spanish Armada.
Routes through the forest of Hermo
Although there are plenty of reasons to visit, this forest is one of the least known and least visited in all of Spain , partly because it is privately owned and there are no officially approved trails crossing it. You won't find any marked circuits or signs for "PR" or "GR" (short or long-distance trails), nor any multicolored markers.
The "no entry" signs at some crossroads are surprising, even though we encounter them on theoretically public domain paths belonging to the old Cañada or Camino Real that has linked since time immemorial: Gedrez-Monasterio-Braña del Narcea-Caboalles.
These circumstances discourage hikers and reinforce the forest's isolation. However, this doesn't prevent one from easily admiring it. The winding, narrow road that leads from the town of Rengos into the valley towards the Hermo Monastery encourages slow driving, especially after Gedrez , when the valley narrows and the mass of beech trees on the right-hand slope begins to dominate the landscape. In the sections where the river flows parallel to the road, the beauty is breathtaking.
After reaching the village of Monasterio de Hermo, we can continue along the road, passing through old mining areas. The road will eventually turn into a track that leads us towards the Brañas del Narcea . The ascent will allow us to contemplate the immensity of Mount Hermo and the beech-covered slopes, which can only be accessed on foot in short sections via tracks and paths.
This is the ideal place to get out of the car and discover the interior of the beech forest, yes: leaving everything as we have found it; without making unnecessary noise and being respectful with the properties and the environment; walking without leaving paths and trails; without moving logs, branches, or stones; WITHOUT MAKING FIRE OR THROWING GARBAGE.
In Las Brañas, five cabins are preserved in perfect condition, as well as a small chapel, close to a source of crystalline water. From here the path starts towards Fuentes del Narcea and the vega del palo: “To the Veiga'l Palo. To the devil's offering. Above corpses, and below trees.”
Photographs: © Roberto Molero on Flickr
