The secluded Plaza de Manuel Uría, or town hall square, is already filled to the brim. Thousands of people pack the rest of the village. Many have come to Nava on the sidrotrenes (RENFE trains with special schedules that come to the town from all over Asturias). Little by little, the square and the adjacent streets are impregnated with the penetrating smell of cider.
Nava: cider paradise
The Nava Cider Festival is a true tribute to this essential element. It has been celebrated since 1969, always on the second weekend of July. In 1989, it was declared a Festival of National Tourist Interest . The location of this event couldn't be more fitting, as Nava is a town with its own distinct character in the Cider Region. The municipality is abundant with orchards, cider presses, and cider houses.
It produces per year more than 10 million liters of natural cider and the sector advances here as nowhere else, consolidating the cider with designation of origin and the new table or "new expression" ciders. Sparkling ciders, cider spirits, vinegars and musts also have a place on this land.
In this town you can also visit the Cider Museum of Asturias.
Cider Museum
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Cider for everyone
In any case, the star of Asturias' most famous Cider Festival, the one that draws huge crowds, is natural cider : a low-alcohol, non-carbonated beverage made from fermented apple juice, which tastes like nowhere else in the world in Asturias. There's certainly no better opportunity to try the first cider of the season. The Cider Producers Association offers free tastings of thousands of liters ; all you need to do is tie a green scarf around your neck to join the local fans gathered in the town hall square.
An unparalleled cider tasting takes place on Saturday starting at noon, after the festival's queen cider has been chosen. The popular cider route begins at the same time as this tasting and continues throughout the weekend. It involves going from stall to stall and pairing the ciders with cheeses, chorizo, empanadas, tortillas, preñaos (stuffed bread rolls), boroña (cornbread), and more. The event also features fairground attractions, raffles, trampolines, and numerous street vendors.
The best cider in Asturias
The competition to choose the best natural cider produced in Asturias —and in the town of Nava itself—takes place that same Saturday morning and is a key event of the festival. The vast majority of cider houses in Asturias participate. They all seek the most prestigious recognition, the publicity that comes with such a high-profile award.
In the final, after a rigorous pre-selection process, only the eight best ciders compete for the prize in a blind tasting before the eager audience. The jury is composed of 10 independent experts, and the winning cider is announced from the town hall balconies. The prize is awarded in the presence of prominent regional and municipal authorities. It's a colorful ceremony, both official and informal, in a square where the aroma and effects of cider are ever-present.
On Saturday, as throughout the weekend, there are a number of children's activities, bagpipe bands and regional dances, live concerts with highlights of the musical scene... Very early in the morning, the festival continues in more than one tent with different musical offerings.
The art of pouring
Anyone can pour cider; pouring it well is another matter entirely. In Nava, on Sunday, the last day of the competition, we can enjoy watching the masters of the craft. These are the unique individuals who don't hesitate when it comes to offering the perfect pour.
The International Cider Pouring Competition not only rewards the technique of the "espalme" – the peculiar way in which the cider crashes on the edge of the glass and the immediate disappearance of the foam once poured – but also takes into account elegance, poise in pouring, the way of holding the bottle, the gaze of the pourer , the resistance of the carbon dioxide particles in the small glasses that the jury tastes; even the "pegue": that veil of fine foam stuck to the glass, which must leave an exact trace once we have removed our lips.
The winner is announced at a special event and is attended by the entire Good Brotherhood of the Siceratores , in their official green uniform, including capes and hats, to give greater prominence to a well-deserved award.
During the week prior to these central events take place in Nava exhibitions, talks and talks, book presentations, bowling championships, tastings, gastronomic tastings. The Cider Museum organizes several of these events.
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If you want to experience authentic cider culture, Nava is the place, and its festival is the perfect time.
Text: © Ramón Molleda for asturias.com
