Some say spring arrives in Asturias when the apple trees blossom; others, more astute, know that the true, unmistakable sign of the changing season is the First Flower Fair in the noble town of Grado, or Grau for the locals, who won't budge an inch from Castilian when it comes to naming their own. And they're right to do so.
This town, founded in the 13th century under the patronage of Alfonso X the Wise , has preserved its medieval essence while steadily moving towards modernity. Grao, nestled between the gentle breeze of the Nalón River and the echoes of an ancient—but not stale—history, is a town that combines the grandeur of its stone with the freshness of its greenery. In other words, it is as much a noble town as it is a vegetable garden. And this charming ambiguity is what is celebrated, with all due honors, at its First Flower Festival.
At the Primera Flor market, local products are displayed and sold —jams and juices, cured meats, cheeses, honey, organic flours, baked goods, and especially the Asturian faba bean with Protected Geographical Indication (PGI). This event, which kicks off in early April like someone waking from a winter slumber, is much more than a market: it's a celebration of Grado's pride . Because that's what the inhabitants of Grado are called, moscones, as if the name came from the persistent, cheerful buzzing sound they use to ward off modern tedium.
First Flower Agenda
First Flower of Grao 2026
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What to see in Grao
Grao is more than just a town; it's a square steeped in history, a church with a resonant sound, and a market with a vibrant atmosphere. Its old town , declared a Site of Cultural Interest, is as neatly arranged as a domino table on a rainy Sunday afternoon, preserving its medieval layout while maintaining a modern elegance . The houses, with their flower-filled balconies, gaze at the visitor with that mixture of wariness and curiosity that characterizes good hosts.
Dominating the scene is General Ponte Square. It hosts the weekly market, a tradition dating back to the Middle Ages that takes on special significance during the First Flower Fair. During the fair, it transforms into a mosaic of colors and aromas : top-quality beans, cabbages that look as if sculpted by a stonemason, and cheeses whose fragrance rivals the finest perfumes.
Not far from there, the Miranda-Valdecarzana Palace —which seems straight out of a 19th-century novel with a widowed count and a wayward maiden—now houses the House of Culture. There, amidst various activities, the learned spirit of the town finds refuge, because in Grao there are more brains than hats, even if it doesn't seem that way on a fair day.
Very close by is the Chapel of Sorrows , erected in the 18th century, whose ashlar stone facade and main altarpiece dedicated to the Virgin of Sorrows make it a benchmark of Asturian Baroque.
During the First Flower Fair, these buildings not only serve as a backdrop, but are actively integrated into the celebrations.
Some people believe that the First Flower Fair owes its name to the first flowers in the countryside. False. Or at least, not entirely true. Because what truly flourishes here are the acquaintances, the reunions, the loud greetings, and the news that doesn't make it into the newspaper but spreads like wildfire among the stalls: who returned to the village, who left without saying goodbye, and who, in a burst of spring, has fallen in love again. Not always in that order.
And the fair, more than an agricultural celebration, is a manifestation of Asturian rural life in its most festive, relaxed, and, why not say it, flirtatious form . There are bagpipes, there are bagpipers, and there are those who wear their best shirts just to be seen. Nobody admits it, but everyone does.
Photos: © Grao Tourist Office.
Text: © Ramón Molleda for asturias.com
