Eating barnacles is like tasting the very essence of the sea. The temperature, salinity, and density of the water in which they grow, along with its rich nutrient content, contribute to their healthy growth and contribute to their exceptionally healthy flavor. They are rich in minerals and low in fat (barely 2%), containing between 5% and 20% protein . Care must be taken when eating them, as they tend to splash. Therefore, barnacles should be carefully opened between the fingernail and the peduncle, the edible part, which can reach up to five centimeters in length.
The best barnacles are those of a suitable size , somewhat thick, and neither too long nor too short. These are known as "sun-grown" barnacles. Those that grow in the shade, on rocks underwater, are longer and less prized. They take about six months to reach full size. They begin as larvae adrift at sea. At a certain point, they choose a rock that will be their habitat and, with their "cement gland," produce a liquid that attaches them to the rock. For proper development, they need, in addition to clean, turbulent waters, long periods of sunshine. Fresh rainwater stimulates their growth. It's easy to understand, then, why Asturias offers ideal conditions for them to grow clean and healthy.
The difficulty of reaching the barnacles and the risky extraction carried out in the high surf more than justify their high price. It's a job that technically uses the same methods as in the past, especially for the so-called "foot barnacle harvesters ," who, unlike those who approach the coast by boat, have to walk along the high shore and descend to the base of the cliffs, following the natural paths carved into the rock by the sea and wind. Without the slightest hint of vertigo, they wait for low tide and slide down ropes to the "llancar ," the area where the sea crashes, a space that can reach three meters in length and where marine flora and barnacle clusters abound. Armed with a couple of sacks, a barnacle harvester (a tool for extracting the prized shellfish), a rope about 50 meters long, and a wetsuit, the barnacle harvesters begin their journey along the narrow paths near the coastal cliffs, searching from above for a suitable flat area. Then they descend to the base of the limestone cliffs. They swim, dive, and move from one islet to another with the rope on their backs to secure the sack and avoid losing their catch.
The pine cones that sprout during spring and autumn are abundant in the sandbanks, reaching biological maturity throughout the year. Once down below, using a barnacle rake —a classic tool with a wooden handle and a blade ending in a metal wedge—the hollows where the barnacles are embedded are stirred. At the mercy of the waves, and surrounded by the sharp edges of mussels and rocks, the professionals carry out their work.
Preparing barnacles is incredibly simple , and it's nothing like the effort it takes to harvest them. They shouldn't be washed, and if you do, it should be done briefly and lightly. They should be cooked in seawater if possible. If not, add a handful of coarse salt. They shouldn't be cooked too tightly together or in too much water. Add the barnacles when the water comes to a boil. Once it returns to a boil, let them cook for five minutes, then remove them to a serving dish and cover them with a cloth. They should be eaten hot or warm . In Asturias, they are ordered as tapas and, of course, accompanied by small bottles of cider.
Throughout almost all of Asturias, you can find them, especially, of course, in the coastal towns. Traditionally, they weren't such a prized commodity because they were scarce. Their value lay in their flavor; quantities were different, and barnacle harvests were plentiful in the community. Vestiges of these popular gatherings continue today in what are known as gastronomic festivals. The barnacle is the star of these festivals in several coastal towns, but perhaps Tapia de Casariego is the one that has recently taken center stage. It has managed to organize a barnacle festival like few others, with diners coming from all over the Principality to taste hundreds of kilograms of this prized mollusk.
Text: © Ramón Molleda for asturias.com
