The village's rural setting recreates its own past and, in an abstract sense, attempts to encapsulate the essence of Asturian culture. Nearly a hundred artisans (working with textiles, espadrilles, and specializing in gastronomy, wood carving, goldsmithing, bagpipe making, etc.) and around 300 performers bring to life a market that Porrúa created a decade ago for the rest of Asturias.
Throughout this historic weekend, anticipation is building. The "spectators" of this unique performance take advantage of the intermissions to enjoy ribs, chorizo, and cheese, and perhaps buy a souvenir to pin to their lapel or hang on their walls. The air is filled with the scent of herbs, and the performance unfolds naturally, thanks to the creative hand and professional skill of local actors who openly mingle with us, the extras.
"How wonderful to be back again!" greets a hypothetical Asturian family lost in an incredibly adventurous exile. The countryman, the studious cousin, the rascal, the uncle, and the girl say they left the Pyrenees years ago, crossed Europe, reached Siberia, went down to Arabia, boarded a ship, and arrived on the African coast, then on to America on another ship—quite a journey. And from each place, they brought back a million anecdotes and perhaps a captive native to show off like some kind of freak. They arrive in Porrúa brimming with energy despite such a long voyage, and in every case, they prove to be experts at the diabolo and contortion.
The "boss" of the family, Rafa González, the "countryman", 2 and a half meters tall, wedged on his stilts, explains why Porrúa is the end of the trip: "we come to ask because there are more fame that here, yes, some exceptional day we put on the boats to fish on the high seas», he recalled.
And between performances , cheeses and ring-shaped pastries, cider also flows, as the town crier had rightly warned at the beginning of the Folixa: "and in Porrúa the cider is nice and fresh and there are plenty of snacks to fill your belly and your stomach ." What's more: "whoever doesn't find it at the market, is either blind or an idiot, because there are girls like roses and young men the best of them, and the desire for a party is like burning embers."
Evening falls in the magical and mischievous village , while the frixuelos, sausages, and water continue to flow, and a distinguished musician takes to the streets to delight the crowd with a concert, half music and half mythological tale, in which xanas, trasgos, busgosos, and other strange beings parade amidst the spectacle. As tradition dictates, fire adorns the corners of Porrúa's main square, and the village is transported back to legend.
Also common during these days are performances by the local folk groups, who usually conclude their dances with the popular Danza prima , the most traditional of the dances, as a grand finale.
The cultural association " El Llacín , " made up of residents of Porrúa, is the driving force behind the event. They never hide their satisfaction with the popular support for the Mercáu (market) and are constantly amazed by the excitement their initiative generates. They also don't hide the secrets to their success: many people working hard for much of the year to ensure everything runs smoothly. Each year, more and more people in the village get involved in the organizational aspects. This tireless residents' association also promotes and manages another traditional gem of the region: the Porrúa Ethnographic Museum.
Ethnographic Museum of Porrúa
In the beautiful village of Porrúa, in the municipality of Llanes, famous for preserving its distinctive characteristics such as… Read more
Text: © Ramón Molleda for asturias.com
