Their consumption is often accompanied by a warm, social atmosphere, typically paired with cider . They can also be enjoyed in more sophisticated ways, such as in creams, pâtés, or as the base for rich sauces or soups in upscale restaurants catering to discerning gourmets.
Before eating, however, the work of shellfish gathering is essential , a human activity that always precedes gastronomy. Some catches, like barnacles, deserve a separate chapter, as the risk and scarcity lend this dish, or tapa, even greater gastronomic merit. In this case, it's a task that technically relies on the same tools as in times past, especially for the so-called "foot barnacle gatherers ," who, unlike those who approach the coast by boat, have to walk in balance along the high shore and descend to its base, following the natural paths carved into the rocks by the sea and wind. Without the slightest feeling of vertigo, they wait for low tide and slide down ropes to the "llancar ," the area where the sea crashes, a space that can reach three meters in length and where marine flora and clusters of barnacles abound.
Where it does not form insurmountable beaches or cliffs, the rugged and cobbled coast of the region dominates everywhere. They are authentic natural museums. The food cycle of the pedreros or pedrales is like a wheel that turns and the man is at the end of the chain. Llámpares, periwinkles, arcinos (oricios), barnacles, shrimps, cámbaros, andariques, cuttlefish, barbadas, congrios, xulies, goats, sea bass and, and a little further from the coast, lobsters and spider crabs.
The lamps
An example of adaptation to the environment is that of the limpet . Despite its stony immobility—for it is always seen clinging firmly to the rocks—it is deceptive. This mollusk does move, even though it is difficult to see. It is an ancestor of snails, moving in a similar way; the only difference is that, in its persistent attempt to remain true to its nature, it still breathes through gills and has not yet emerged to the surface. Its shell is flat and rudimentary, and for this reason, it seems more ancient, almost legendary. It barely knows the sensation of "threat." But of course, trust has always been the first enemy of living organisms, and a man appears—preferably with a license for this type of fishing—and the limpet, confused and powerless in the face of the confrontation, watches as its beloved rock recedes into the distance forever. The sociology of any habitat also extends to the popular limpet fishing trips. Every year, numerous coastal towns pay their own special culinary tribute to one of the tastiest and most abundant mollusks found along their coast. Kilograms upon kilograms of limpets are cooked with meticulous care, just as tradition dictates and as the elders of the area have passed down orally. They say this dish served to fortify the diet during hard times, the post-war period that some of us experienced. And yet, we have no chroniclers to fully explain the symbolic significance of the shell middens left by the Paleolithic era in these lands. In any case, everything seems to indicate that limpets are delicious. Above all, they taste of the sea and the rocks.
The "with cider" recipe , more contemporary and typical of Huerres (Colunga), is a modern twist that delights loyal diners. The limpets must be steamed, not boiled, as they become tough; the sauce is prepared separately with whatever produce the neighbors have contributed from their gardens. The essence of onions, tomatoes, peppers, chorizo, ham, paprika, etc., must be thoroughly blended . Cider is added to taste, and then the limpets and seawater are stirred together. The result is magnificent, judging by its success at the table. When the sauce is gone, everyone dips bread into their pots, savoring the last drops of this truly unique flavor.
The walkers or nécoras
Another queen of the nearby coast is the spider crab, or velvet crab , which is usually served whole in large platters, simply cooked so you can quickly devour it. The process involves removing the shell and legs, eating the meat, and sucking out its internal juices, which are appropriately salted. Spider crabs also lend themselves to flavoring more complex seafood dishes. For example, they can be cooked for about fifteen minutes with half an onion, a clove of garlic, and parsley. In another saucepan, the chosen fish—monkfish or hake—is simmered for an hour, preferably with the head on for added flavor, along with half an onion, a clove of garlic, tomato, carrot, and a sprig of parsley. Once cooked, the crab meat is patiently shredded, and then its shell is crushed as finely as possible. The juices released are added to the fish broth. Once everything is strained, add the crabmeat, half a glass of brandy, and half a glass of cider or white wine. Adjust the salt, add a little pepper, and let it simmer for another hour. The final touch is to add the egg yolks, beaten in a bowl with a few spoonfuls of broth.
The sea urchins or holes
The sea urchin route , or "oricios," begins anywhere along the Asturian coast during winter. Many people grab them on the spot and devour them voraciously, although sea urchins quickly gained renown as a delicacy , and processed products like their roe, or caviar, sold in tins, are now abundant. Sea urchin pie is another of its more sophisticated forms, and hake in sea urchin sauce is unparalleled, especially when accompanied by close relatives like prawns and clams. Sea urchins are excellent for a balanced diet, containing iodine, sea salt , and other nutrients, but caution is advised as they are stinging in the wild.
This is the seafood of Asturias, simple, sometimes shy, to consume before today's date at a rustic table without too many pretensions of protocol, other times without equal pretensions but presented without complexes in large fountains or cauldrons for a whole community that celebrates contemporary rites debtors of primitive rites. On other occasions treated with delicate affection, in a simple and almost minuscule way, to accompany, this time, a formal meal, even for innovations snobs more typical of catering.
Before consuming it, it is recommended that, preferably, the consumer in turn take a stroll along the Asturian coast to appreciate the first sauce of all, the authentic natural state of the largest pot imaginable where all the senses come to a boil and not only the of taste.
Text: © Ramón Molleda for asturias.com
