The Cabo Peñas

Latitude: 43.6539612 Length: -5.8436966
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It's over 100 meters above sea level, an exceptional experience on a cliff so sharp it resembles the prow of a giant ocean liner. The cruise that Cabo Peñas invites us on is no ordinary adventure; the winds lash, bringing the sea with all its fury, and seagulls fly overhead. The waves break in two against the prow of our imaginary vessel, which is actually a protruding and powerful shell of the land itself. The sea splits against the figurehead; a quartzite figure, abstract and geometric. Mysterious, too.

Our hair is ruffled at Cabo Peñas, we breathe deeply, we dare to look towards the beyond, in this case at the bottom, where the white foam is radiant and vivacious. The islets appear for help.

On our own personal meridian, we can sit and imagine. Suppose it's midday and you're traveling west, or east. Suppose you can travel instantaneously in any direction. Maintaining a constant pace, 180º further on you'll reach midnight. When you've traveled 360º you'll return to where you were, the time will be midday again, yesterday at noon. Today or tomorrow. Time doesn't stop, yet it also stands still, sailing on the "Peñas Ship ." That tiny point or triangle we see peeking out on the map of Asturias turns out to be a monument to the sea, of breathtaking dimensions.

Protected area of ​​Cabo Peñas

Geographically, Cabo Peñas is located in the central part of the Asturian coast, between Gijón and Avilés, in the municipality of Gozón . The actual surface area of ​​this promontory, as seen from satellite imagery, is 19,2 km² and contains a series of completely natural, self-contained areas; so much so that it is a protected area , primarily due to its biological importance as a habitat for seabirds and other migratory species.

Here you'll also find all the varieties of heather found in the region , as well as significant geological formations. Inland, to port, the terrain is very gently rolling, with small river valleys that have prevented this flat peninsula from being submerged or cornered by the sea. This also allows it to maintain its elevation and distinct character in relation to the Cantabrian Sea.

The surrounding landscape is taken in at a glance, and on a clear day, the continuous folds of the central Asturian coast can be seen stretching to quite distant locations . From the summit cross and mailbox at the top of La Gaviera (94 m), the northernmost peak of the entire cape, we can glimpse Cabo Vidio and even Cabo Busto to the west (100 km away, in the municipality of Luarca); and to the east, Punta del Castro, Punta de la Narvata, Punta el Paguión, Punta la Vaca, with the view reaching as far as Punta Tazones (about 60 km away, in Villaviciosa).

The Cabo Peñas protected area primarily encompasses cliffs and beaches with valuable dune systems, including, from west to east: Xagó beach, Portezuelos beach, Verdicio beach, Ferrero beach, Llumeres beach, and Bañugues beach. It also includes the islet of La Erbosa , the largest on the Asturian coast after Isla de Deva.

Peñas Lighthouse

The cape is crowned by the Peñas Lighthouse , the most important and farthest-reaching on the Asturian coast. It has been shining since 1852 and is a vital guide for northern sailors . In good weather, the beam of light reaches 41 nautical miles; in fog, a respectable 18 nautical miles. Before 1852, the route was marked by fire, burning logs on a screen of stones that illuminated the night at Peñas and showed sailors the way home.

Going back in time and imagining such primitive navigation allows us to envision a truly cruel voyage, harsh in practically all conditions. What must sailors have thought when they suddenly saw the imposing mass of this cape up close, a cape that already completely overwhelms us? And that's even though we're standing on it, with our feet firmly on the ground and untouched by the swells.

Our ship isn't moving, we're safe.