Covadonga also holds immense historical significance. One of its most legendary achievements is an unparalleled feat, a landmark of the first magnitude in the history of ancient Spain. In this place, armed with stones and little else, the local hordes began the Reconquista of the peninsula and the establishment of an entire Asturian kingdom . With Pelayo at their head , the Arabs retreated, humiliated.
Legend has it that the Astures patiently hid in the recesses of these mountains, awaiting their opportunity. In 722, they emerged from their hiding place to confront their enemy and ultimately triumph in what we know today as the Battle of Covadonga . The native militias were considerably smaller than those of the "infidels." The victory took on epic proportions and entered the annals of history and the chapters of textbooks. A sculpture of Don Pelayo near the basilica depicts a resolute and serene man, a protagonist of his time.
The cave of the Virgin of Covadonga
In the name of legend, we can continue to speak of Covadonga. Ancient chroniclers maintained that the cult of the Virgin of Covadonga is older than it might seem , and that even in the time of Pelayo, the Virgin was highly regarded and decisively influenced the Christian victory. "Small and beautiful," as the song says , she has had a cave all to herself ever since.
Carved into the rock, it is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful spots in Covadonga, attracting thousands of pilgrims each year seeking a blessing. Within this intimate and secluded Catholic sanctuary, prayers take on a deeper meaning than the cameras or the tourist gaze, though these too are abundant in the surrounding area.
The cave can be accessed by a staircase of 101 steps where it is common to see demonstrations of penitents in fulfillment of some promise, many climb it on their knees, praying or kissing the ground, with lit candles or their arms in the form of a cross, some giving thanks and others praying for a miraculous answer from the Lady.
Etymologically, Covadonga comes from the Latin expression "Cova dominica," meaning "Cave of the Lady ." On October 17, 1777, the sanctuary was practically destroyed by a great fire. The current image of the Virgin, created after this fire, is said to have a more serene and graceful face than the previous one. It stands erect on a stone pedestal, and its size and delicate features justify its affectionate nickname, "La Santina" (the Little Saint). The bones of King Pelayo and Alfonso I rest beside her image, and the air is filled with the admiration that two Popes, John XXIII and John Paul II, expressed during their respective visits to the Asturian sanctuary.
From the immense rock, directly below the grotto of the Virgin, springs an impressive waterfall that forms a lagoon in its descent, into which visitors must perform the ritual of throwing a coin. The glint of the base metal remains without any profit motive, sunk as a repository only for immaterial desires.
Another popular ritual is associated with the Fountain of the Seven Spouts, also located beneath the cave, of which it is said: " The Virgin of Covadonga has a very clear fountain; the girl who drinks from it will get married within the year ." Anyone in a hurry to get married knows what to do... quench their thirst in Covadonga.
The basilica of Covadonga
We move from the divine cave to human architecture. The beautiful Basilica of Covadonga was built between 1877 and 1901. The disappearance of its original plans, possibly during the Spanish Civil War, deprived it of its original blueprint. Nevertheless, this monument is considered one of the finest examples of late 19th-century Neo-Romanesque architecture.
It recently celebrated its first centenary with pride, always standing tall atop Cueto Hill, on the edge of a semicircular abyss. The building is visible from everywhere and draws the eye like a powerful magnet. Inside, the expected calm prevails, and an ancient organ plays high above when it's time for a ceremony.
Until the end of the 19th century, religious devotion to Covadonga was very limited; only a few pilgrims arrived in the summer, and especially during the Novena and the feast of the Virgin on September 8th. The Sanctuary was poorly connected, and the canons did not reside there but came in shifts to celebrate Mass. Today, everything has changed. A large group of clergy oversees the religious services and the facilities, and the number of visitors has grown beyond all expectations.
The Lakes of Covadonga
They form a natural gateway to the Picos de Europa National Park . Just 12 km away, ascending a narrow and steep road, you'll reach the beautiful landscapes of Lakes Enol and La Ercina: the Lakes of Covadonga . Before planning your visit, keep in mind the access restrictions imposed by the Principality of Asturias in this area due to the high volume of visitors. You can find all the information in the links below.
Lakes of Covadonga
Climbing to the Lakes of Covadonga is an achievement, especially if you do it by bicycle. It's a 12-kilometer climb … Read more
Access to Lakes of Covadonga 2026
If you want to go up to the Lakes of Covadonga, keep in mind that access is regulated. A fleet of… Read more
Text: © Ramón Molleda for asturias.com
