Castropol

Anchorage, shelter, bay, estuary, gulf, inlet, port, cove… all nouns that can be used to refer to the “wide” mouth of the Eo River. On the bank belonging to Castropol there is a long fishing tradition as well as a great fondness for rowing and sailing.

At low tide, its famous oyster beds are exposed, but what is nowhere to be seen are the remains of two Spanish galleys loaded with silver and jewels that sank in these waters after a relentless pursuit by English pirates.




Latitude: 43.5262833 Length: -7.0302310
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Castropol, the town and capital of the municipality of the same name, is above all a place with a 19th-century feel , illustrious and noble, with a distinctive and unmistakable silhouette. Its reflection in the Eo estuary is almost inseparable from it, as these waters give it its raison d'être and its unique character. The estuary forms a natural border between the Principality of Asturias and Galicia, and the best panoramic view of Castropol is precisely from the port of Ribadeo, on the Galician side of the estuary.

Castropol

In Castropol, Eonaviego or Galician-Asturian is spoken, a language popularly known as "La Fala" . There goes a sailor saying: "People of the sea, people of great warmth, day of muito eve of nothing."

We're talking about a picturesque village like few others, located on the westernmost tip of the Asturian coast, still unknown to many. This village boasts an extraordinary historic center and is nestled on a beautiful peninsula-shaped hill. In addition to all the attractions we'll mention, Castropol has a well-deserved reputation for its excellent seafood cuisine.

The Villa of Castropol

There is evidence that Castropol was already inhabited during the Iron Age. Furthermore, recent findings seem to confirm the suspicions of archaeologists, who have always believed that the town conceals a hill fort or early settlement. Both the place name, its elevated location, and its very structure all seem to indicate that this was indeed the case.

Castropol

In 1587 , a great fire completely destroyed the town; only the Chapel of Santa María del Campo remained standing. Despite this, the town's architectural value was more than recovered from then on, rising from the ashes to such an extent that today it is a town declared a Historic Site and a Cultural Heritage Asset (BIC).

The tower that stands out above the other buildings is the 16th-century Church of St. James the Apostle . Visible from anywhere, it rises above the charming white houses with slate roofs. It adds the finishing touch to a cityscape that is orderly and very elegant.

Castropol isn't very big, and apart from the occasional hill, strolling through its streets is very pleasant . Cobblestone streets add to its charm and lead to the doorways of colonial-style buildings, ancestral homes, small palaces, and palaces of great architectural value, such as the Valledor Palace (16th century) or the Palace of the Marquises of Santa Cruz de Marcenado (also known as the Montenegro Palace, 18th century). The Casa de las Cuatro Torres (18th century) is also quite impressive, as is the early 20th-century Modernist complex comprised of Vicente Loriente Park and the Casino/Casa de Cultura (current home to the prestigious Public Library, founded in 1921 and considered one of the best in Spain). The palatial Villa Rosita and the understated town hall are equally noteworthy.

A visit to this dazzling heritage site takes on greater significance when we learn that in the 18th century, during the height of the town's development, the English seized Ribadeo and threatened to do the same to Castropol and Figueras, forcing these latter towns to pay a hefty ransom. Exactly a century earlier, in Linera, one of the Eo River's traditional shipyards, two Urcas (galleys) were built that fought in the Spanish Armada to defend Spanish interests.

In the 19th century, with the French invasion and the capture of the main cities of the province, the Superior Junta of Asturias was moved to Castropol, creating here a very important regiment made up of 10 companies and 1024 men, all of them from Castropol, who carried the good name of their town throughout Spain fighting against the Napoleonic troops.

The honorable history of this town also includes the figure of Fernando Villaamil (1845-1898). A naval officer, naval engineer, and writer, he designed a light, fast, metal ship called the "Destroyer ," which proved so successful that the name was used generically for all ships of its class from then on. His town dedicated a monument to him, rich in symbolism. Located in Vicente Loriente Park, it features the figure of the sailor and behind him a woman who allegorically represents the nation. Adding to this is the gigantic globe atop a column, with a winged genius seated on it, holding a rudder, and the frigate "Nautilus," with which Villaamil circumnavigated the globe.

One of the most charming areas of this town is the Paseo del Muelle , which allows you to travel along the entire coastline of the town until you reach the marina and fishing port and the sailing club.

Another option to discover Castropol is to do so thanks to the Literary Route through Castropol-Santiniebla , a one-and-a-half-hour walk that revives the text that Luis Cernuda wrote in this town, exploring the very human and spatial context in which the author forged it.

Castropol also has several viewpoints. The most well-known is the "Mirador de la Mirandilla ," very close to the church, offering spectacular views of the Eo estuary, Ribadeo, and Figueras. From here, you can also see the long Puente de Los Santos (Bridge of the Saints) that connects Asturias and Galicia. It has a considerable length of 612 meters, divided into five spans.

Castropol exemplary town

Besides enjoying a privileged setting and benefiting from the open views afforded by a large estuary connected to the sea, Castropol also stands out for the cultural boldness of its people. In 1997, the "Castropol Neighborhood Association" was awarded the Exemplary Town of Asturias Prize. According to the jury's report, it highlighted "the respect for the finest Enlightenment traditions of Asturias" and the implementation of "initiatives of the highest significance."

The residents organize themselves around a few but well-established groups that allow them to promote their way of life and prosper economically. This is exemplified by their traditional Yacht Club , a society that has absorbed the best of the trades and the entire cultural heritage of the sailors and fishermen of the estuary, always putting it at the service of the region's progress. Castropol also boasts a renowned century-old library that has greatly contributed to the enlightened atmosphere that permeates this town. Since its founding in the 1920s, the Menéndez Pelayo Public Library and its active outreach program have recognized that culture should reach every corner of the municipality and beyond. Since then, it has offered a wide range of activities, not only promoting reading but also building networks and strategies for social development.

The unity of the community can be clearly seen every year in the traditional "Corpus Christi" festival, which adorns all the streets of the town with enormous floral carpets.

The Eo Estuary

The Yacht Club, the "Ría del Eo" Sailing Club, the trainera regattas, the Arnao Aeroclub, and the modern oyster and clam farming are clear examples of the vitality of a municipality that draws much of its strength from the estuary itself. This estuary, created by a longitudinal fault and a series of smaller fractures that form inlets, is an ecosystem of overwhelming richness, with its bird colonies, underwater meadows, and otter population. In the sporting arena, the estuary is the setting for rowing competitions , traditionally born from rivalries among seafarers. Records show regattas in Castropol date back to 1890, using the town's own fishing boats or "barcaxe" (small fishing boats).

The Eo estuary

The Eo estuary

From a satellite view, the Eo estuary is more than just a border between regions; it's a… Read more

The estuary is a source of wealth, a generator of production methods, a hub of maritime activity, and a growing focus of tourist interest due to its attractive rocky outcrops, beaches, coves, and inlets. The Eo estuary is also where the only variety of Asturian oysters is cultivated extensively and sustainably. These native oysters are finding their place in the Spanish gastronomic landscape with their explosive salinity, strong shells, and powerful flavor. Moreover, we can sample them at the popular Somos la Ostra Festival , held annually during the May Day long weekend.

Castropol and surroundings

Before the Eo River flows into the Cantabrian Sea, it forms a cove on its right bank. From this side, you can visit Salías Beach , where you'll find a rock formation covered in trees and vegetation, which becomes isolated at high tide, forming a small island. You can walk along the cove all the way to Arnao de Figueras Beach.

Figueras de Castropol is the most populated town in the municipality, despite not being its capital. Here, the iconic Astilleros Gondán shipyard employs hundreds of people and builds vessels for clients around the world.

The town also boasts a very outstanding urban landscape, with important architectural gems such as the Pardo Donlebún Palace , whose central tower dates from the 16th century, the church of Santiago Apostol , from the 17th century, the Atalaya hermitage , the Clock Tower or the Peñalba Palace , now the site of a Hotel, was built in 1912 by the architect Angel Arbéx, a disciple of Gaudí and represents one of the best examples of Asturian Indian architecture of the early 20th century with very clear features of art nouveau.

At present Figueras is a tourist center whose population grows substantially in summer.

If we're looking for open water, we can head to Peñarronda beach, which, at almost 800 meters long, is ideal for surfing. The town of Tapia de Casariego is very close by.


Text: for asturias.com Copyright Ramon Molleda


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