In Llanes, a town where the air smells both of salt and nostalgia, the Indiano houses rise like an architectural catalog of transatlantic nostalgia. They are not just homes: they are memories in stone and wood, palm trees brought from the tropics greeting the Cantabrian Sea, a collection of styles brought from overseas.
The Indian phenomenon was not a simple migratory episode, but a true social epic. The Llaniscos who emigrated to America—mainly to Cuba, Mexico, or Argentina—returned, if fortune was favorable, with capital that they wanted to turn into a visible symbol of their success. And what better way to do it than to build a house? But Not just any house, but one with turrets, galleries, stained glass windows and turned balustradesIn Llanes, these houses are grouped together in a "nineteenth-century city" that overlaps the medieval one and interacts, not without some tension, with the more prosaic architecture of the modern blocks.
Here we suggest a nearly linear route to discover all these buildings. We start on Avenida de la Concepción, head toward Calle Pidal, cross the river, continue along Calle Castillo, and then up Avenida de la Paz.
1 Villa Parres or Partarriu Palace
2 House of the Little Boats
3 Palace of the Marchioness of Argüelles
4 Villa Flora or House of the Lions
5 House of the Junco
6 Lamadrid Chalet
7 Casino
8 Blue Chalet House
1 · Villa Parres or Partarriu Palace
Conception Avenue.
Probably one of the best-known mansions in the town center, located at the eastern entrance to Llanes. It was built in 1899 by order of José Parres Piñera, who returned from Cuba.. It stands out for its imposing symmetrical façade, balconies with wrought iron railings, and a lookout tower from which, it is said, the sea could be seen. Today it remains in private hands, but retains its original splendor intact. This impressive mansion It was the film setting for the harrowing story of 'The Orphanage' in 2007..
2 · Los Barquitos House
Conception Avenue.
The House of the Little Boats (or Quinta de Don Juan) is an Indian-style mansion Built in 1923 in Llanes by the Indian Juan Noriega Sordo, after his return from Mexico. Designed by architect Enrique Rodríguez Bustelo, the two-story building stands out for Its facade is decorated with tiles, galleries with columns, spires on the roof and a palm tree in the garden, a typical symbol of Indian houses. It is located on an elevated plot, surrounded by a stone wall and cast iron fence.
3 · Palace of the Marchioness of Argüelles
Conception Avenue.
The Mansion/Palace of the Marchioness of Argüelles, also known as the Palace of the Marchioness, is a elegant neoclassical style residence Located in Llanes, Asturias. It was Built between 1890 and 1895 by the Indian Ramón Argüelles Alonso as a wedding gift for his daughter María Josefa Argüelles, who married Federico Bernaldo de Quirós.
The rectangular building stands out for its symmetrical façade with a triangular pediment, a double-flight staircase, and a spacious balcony. Surrounded by majestic palm trees, The palace became a meeting point for Llanes high society and was visited by members of the royal family..
4 · Villa Flora or House of the Lions
Pidal Street.
With an eclectic style with modernist reminiscences, its peculiarity lies in the floral mosaics on its eaves and the profuse use of colorIt was the summer residence of a family who had made their fortune in Veracruz. It has been impeccably maintained, giving it the air of a postcard frozen in time.
5 · House of the Junco
Pidal Street
This mansion stands out not only for its restrained elegance, but also for its strong symbolic presence in the Llanes urban landscape. It was commissioned by the Junco family, who amassed their fortune in Mexico. The building combines sobriety with a clear desire for representation: a symmetrical façade, classical pediments, and a garden enclosed by a wrought iron fence. Its walls convey a tale of success and comeback, told in an architectural key.
6 · Lamdrid Chalet
Pidal Street
It was built between 1895 and 1896 commissioned by the Indian Tomás Rodríguez Lamadrid, who had made his fortune in America. The design was carried out by master builder Juan Sordo Mijares. The house stands out for its main facade. divided into three sections, an entrance staircase and a showy gallery at the backIn its garden there is a large palm tree, a characteristic symbol of the houses of the Indianos.
The building was later purchased from Mexico by Ángel Mijares Fernández, another Indian who had emigrated to Mexico at the age of 13 and dedicated himself to the jewelry business, especially pearls. After being widowed, he returned to Llanes with his children and occupied the chalet. Currently, the Lamadrid Chalet has been transformed into an apartment building, although it retains its original exterior appearance.
7 · The Llanes Casino
Castillo Street
It is located in the center of the town, next to the Town Hall, on the site formerly occupied by the municipal market. It was promoted in 1910 by the Llanes Casino Society and designed by architect Juan Álvarez Mendoza.
This building stands out for its modernist style, visible in its facade decorated with elements such as ornate balconies, plant motifs and female masks. The property It reflects the ornate and exotic taste of Indian architecture. from the early 20th century, influenced by the French modernism of the time. Its construction responded to the desire of the Indians to have a representative and elegant recreational space..
8 · Blue Chalet House
Avenida de la Paz
The Blue Chalet is an emblematic Indian-style house located on the outskirts of Llanes towards Poo. Built between 1902 and 1905 by the Indian Prudencio González García, originally from Cabrales and raised in Mexico, the house stands out for its eclectic architecture and distinctive blue color.
The house has a two-story structure, basement and attic, with unique architectural elements such as a three-story crenellated tower in the right corner and other small ornamental towers. The facade is decorated with Plant filigrees and moldings that give it the air of a fairytale palace. It also has a house for the caretakers and a tall palm tree in the garden, a typical symbol of Indian houses.
Text: © Ramón Molleda for asturias.com
