Cape Vido is, without a doubt, an astonishing landscape. We have the feeling of being in a very remote place, one of those places that are not easily forgotten. Located in the parish of Oviñana, barely ten kilometers from Cudillero , Cape Vido is the ultimate expression of marine erosion, active for millions of years along this coastline. Its slope ranges between 10 and 20% and it belongs to a coastal plateau whose age is attributed to the Lower Pliocene, about 12 million years ago.
The eastern face of the cape is spectacular: strata of quartzite and slate plunge vertically from almost 100 meters. Those who suffer from vertigo or the reckless who tend to push their limits should avoid this area. There are no fences or any kind of protection, as this is a completely natural environment. There's no need to take unnecessary steps to get the perfect photograph; the precipice is overwhelming and photogenic enough without taking unnecessary risks. If you're with children, keep them close and supervised, and pets securely restrained.
The Cape Vidio Lighthouse
A lighthouse was built on this cape in 1950 after the area suffered countless shipwrecks. It is the last lighthouse built in Asturias and one of the last in Spain. It incorporates significant navigational innovations. Standing approximately 90 meters above sea level, its light signal flashes four times every 20 seconds and can be seen from about 35 miles away (16 miles in bad weather). The lighthouse has a parking area and a walkway that explores the surrounding area along a narrow path.
If we walk to the northernmost point, we discover the enormous, inaccessible rock that marks the end of the cape. This is the islet of Chouzano, where cormorants and seagulls nest . The low flight of the latter captivates us, and the panoramic view overwhelms us. On clear days, to the east we can see the mouth of the Nalón River (the longest and most voluminous in Asturias), and the beaches near Avilés or Cabo Peñas… To the west: the beaches of Oviñana, Playa del Silencio, Cadavedo, Cabo Busto; we can even make out Estaca de Bares, in A Coruña.
The area where the lighthouse and the cape now stand was a strategic location since the Iron Age . Recent research confirms that it is one of the largest fortified sites on the entire Asturian coast . Some already refer to it as El Castrellón de Cabu Vidíu . The enormous coastal promontory, shaped like an elongated peninsula, has steep cliffs on all sides except the southeast, and it was in this area that the defensive lines of the time were concentrated, with a system composed of three ditches and two intermediate parapets that cut across the isthmus.
Walk of the Viewpoints
To the left and right of the lighthouse, numerous inlets and promontories frame a number of rocky beaches and coves. The western face of Cabo Vidíu, which is less steep than the eastern face, drops directly down to Peñadoria beach. A short hike of just 2 kilometers , starting from the lighthouse itself, can be taken in that direction .
The path takes about 20-25 minutes to walk , and there are wooden benches scattered at several key points for admiring the coastal scenery. This section is very exposed to the waves, and its beaches, first Peñadoira and then Cueva, are not easily accessible, as you have to climb nearly 80 meters. From the benches/viewpoints, however, you can get an excellent perspective of these rugged beaches and take them with you forever etched in your memory.
At the viewpoint overlooking Cueva beach , in the town of Oviñana, we can admire the fishing boat Aldebarán , perched on the very edge of the cliff as a tribute to those lost at sea. This restored vessel boasts the distinction of being one of the oldest in Asturias, built in Lastres in 1964. The sight of this boat against the backdrop of the sea is truly unique and well worth taking a few photos.
But if there's one perfect spot for taking photos, it's the bench at the El Sablón viewpoint , which we'll find a little further on. Perched on a precarious natural platform, it offers unparalleled views of this coastline and Vallina beach. It's one of the most Instagrammable spots in Spain ; its devotees claim it's the best bench in the world, others call it the bench at the end of the world, a place that takes your breath away… it deserves to be praised as much as possible, using the most memorable descriptions and the most superlative adjectives. The views are truly breathtaking. Taking a photo from here is like reaching Nirvana :)
Sablón viewpoint
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Ideally, sunsets should be one of the highlights of our walk. The sun in this area seems to linger, stubbornly resisting the sunset and bathing the seascape in a powerfully golden light. We'll also reap a great reward from this walk if we take it when the Cantabrian Sea is rough and wild . With all due precautions, and taking into account the strength of the wind and waves, we can capture breathtaking photos with a long-exposure filter and a good tripod.
the church
But besides the cape's great beauty and the walk along its shores, a gem lies hidden within its depths. It goes unnoticed by visitors because it's located directly beneath the lighthouse. It's one of the largest sea caves in the Cantabrian Sea . Its name, La Iglesiona (The Big Church), alludes to the sacred, cathedral-like character of its 60-meter height and its vaulted shape with an immense dome. The acoustics of this place amplified the power with which sailors sounded their conch shells to warn ships on foggy days.
To reach it, you must descend the cliff on the west face following a narrow, steep path that ends with a drop where ropes are necessary. This access is not suitable for everyone; in short, it is dangerous and requires the assistance of specialized guides and organized excursions, which can be booked in the town of Oviñana. The entrance to the cave is through a small opening that is exposed at low tide. The visit must be made when the sea is calm, as it is very exposed during rough seas.
Route through the beaches of Cabo Vidio
If we want to do more than just stroll along the nearby viewpoints, we can embark on a longer route to explore the beaches close to the cape. This excursion takes several hours and covers approximately 10 kilometers. It's essential to do this at low tide, as high tide makes it impossible to cross from one beach to another.
We can start our journey in the town of Oviñana , where we should get good advice from the locals about our purpose of exploring the beaches with a backpack.
From Oviñana, we take the track that descends to Vallina Beach —at 1.300 meters long, it's the longest in the municipality of Cudillero. At the western end of this beach, at Punta del Esquilón, there's another track that leads to the small village of Valdredo. Leaving Valdredo, and following the signs for the "Cliffs Route," we reach Cueva Beach , which we walk along to a rocky outcrop. At low tide, we can cross this outcrop to reach Peñadoria Beach. From here, we ascend another track to the outskirts of Oviñana, where we'll end the route with a well-deserved lunch break.
Information:
Although there is parking near the lighthouse, it's always better to park just outside Oviñana and walk to the cape, enjoying the cliffs along the way. Oviñana has all the necessary amenities to ensure you're well-prepared. Outside of the summer season, it's advisable to bring warm clothing as the area is quite exposed to the wind.
Caution should always be the rule. Avoid getting too close to sharp edges, be careful not to slip , and refrain from taking photos, especially around the lighthouse. Walking around it involves traversing a path that drops off directly into the void in some sections, without railings or any protection. Special vigilance is required with children or pets.
Photographs: © Roberto Molero on Flickr
