Bulnes, heart of the Picos de Europa

Latitude: 43.2359161 Length: -4.8189640
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What to see in and around Bulnes?

Bulnes is worth a visit for many reasons, whether by funicular or on foot. For its scenic beauty and the enjoyment of hiking , we recommend the classic mountain path used by the locals for generations, a route that involves virtually no risk or unexpected surprises. The path, however, is quite steep from the outset. The village exudes an unusual atmosphere, a rustic reality where barely a dozen residents are seen, along with a good number of Asturian houses , many in ruins, including the parish church. The village, which has recently seen improvements in its tourist services, boasts a few popular, though not crowded, bars where you can enjoy a hearty fabada (Asturian bean stew), and some accommodation options for the night.

There used to be a campsite nearby, a popular spot for nature lovers and adventure seekers alike, as Bulnes serves as a gateway to the famous Pico Urriellu (Naranjo de Bulnes), a classic challenge for mountaineers from across the Iberian Peninsula. The village sits at a manageable 649 meters above sea level , but is surrounded by imposing peaks reaching 1.600 meters. New accommodation options and some extra amenities now encourage a more comfortable stay, which we certainly don't want to deny. It is simply the wish of Desdeasturias.com, like that of many other Asturians who love the area, that the use and enjoyment of this natural enclave always involves respect for its inhabitants and the existing environment . It shouldn't be forgotten that this village, which once housed more than 50 people, was founded by shepherds who one day decided to settle permanently in this place, sacrificing many things. In this way, one cannot arrive in Bulnes in a disrespectful manner, disrupting a way of life adopted by the mountain people, nor mistreating a landscape that they have cared for for decades.

Route Bulnes Majada de Arnández

A short distance from the village of Bulnes lies a bucolic and charming spot with excellent views over the… Read more

How long does it take to walk up to Bulnes?

The trail stretches for four kilometers, taking an hour and a half to two hours, depending on your fitness level. We parked our car in the village of Poncebos , just seven kilometers from Arenas de Cabrales . The mountain track that begins here is every bit as impressive as other classic Asturian mountain routes, such as the well-known Cares Route , which also starts in Poncebos. The journey to Bulnes, via the Canal del Texu , is much shorter, but it's mostly flat and offers just the right amount of challenge for a round trip, leaving you feeling a bit tired but very satisfied with the experience. It's suitable for all ages and doesn't require a particularly athletic level of fitness.

From the Jaya bridge, right next to the Poncebos crossroads, to the village of Bulnes, we will have climbed over 400 meters in elevation , with gradients reaching up to 18 percent. The ascent is almost continuous along a path paved with old stones, harmoniously polished by the weather and hikers over many decades. In some sections, the rock forms custom-made steps, patiently sculpted by erosion, without any mortar or material other than the rock itself. Opposite us, we see what is popularly known as the Amuesa Wall . Just as vertical and striking as the Peña Maín we are skirting, through a steep and spectacular gorge above the Texu River , a channel that bears the same name as the river and separates these two natural behemoths.

Finally, the road becomes flat and leads to a kind of charming and tiny valley in which Bulnes is located , like a minor resting place to continue ascending the gigantic staircase that climbs towards the highest mountains.

To one side, on a small hill, we see Bulnes de Arriba , and further on, Bulnes de Abajo , joined by the same road. These two neighborhoods are also known as El Castillo and La Villa . During the winter, they live off livestock, and in the summer, they rely on tourism and mountaineering. We enter the village through its cemetery and the ruined rectory, possibly the most stately building in the town. On one side of the cemetery, we find the chapel that houses the Virgen de las Nieves, the patron saint of the village, to whom the town's main festival is dedicated in early August.

A stream divides the village into two symmetrical sections on either side : houses, shelters, a few shops, a bar, barns still stocked with feed for livestock, and stables. The narrow lanes have a natural surface, made of limestone like the mountain itself, as does the stonework of the walls enclosing the meadows. Once here, all that remains is to enjoy good company or dedicate the rest of the day to contemplation, of which there is plenty. We might also decide to stay overnight and embark on one of the several high-mountain routes that the place suggests, almost beckons us to.

Great return to the Picos de Europa

715€

person

A comprehensive tour with accommodation included through the Picos de Europa. Five days to explore the spectacular landscapes of this national park in depth… Read more

The Funicular to Bulnes

The quickest and easiest way to get there is definitely to hop on the bus in Poncebos and be up in Bulnes in 7 minutes . You can find all the information in the link.

Funicular of Bulnes

The quickest way to reach the Cabrales village of Bulnes is by taking the funicular, which operates… Read more

Sleeping in and around Bulnes

Although Bulnes is a very small village, it has a few rural guesthouses, and in the nearby towns you'll also find hotels, apartments, hostels, and guesthouses— a wide variety of accommodation options in the Picos de Europa . Our link offers deals and direct contact with the owners, without intermediaries or commissions.

The Caprichu of Bulnes

Bulnes' Caprice is… Read more

La Chiflon House

The House of the Chiflón is… Read more

Cabrales cheese

Cabrales cheese is one of the defining characteristics and the quintessential ambassador of Asturias to the rest of the world . This cheese matures for two to five months in natural caves , where the temperature is cool and the humidity high (90% relative humidity and a temperature between 8° and 12°C) is constant, and the aroma of the cheese during its internal curing process always fills the air.