The entire city, the scene of processions and respectful silence in the preceding days, erupts in jubilation on Easter Sunday . The Brotherhood of the Bollu offers a solemn mass in the Church of San Nicolás de Bari. This is followed by the opening proclamation and the start of a spectacular parade of floats decorated by local associations; children dressed in regional costumes, giants and big-headed figures, marching bands, and folk groups. The streets are a constant spectacle, eagerly awaiting the following day.
A Monday to the sound, a city that eats in the streets
Monday can also be a big day. In Avilés, it's the day of the week chosen to celebrate the arrival of spring and mark the end of the Lenten fast and the solemn silence of Holy Week. This unique tradition consists of a communal meal outdoors . It has been practiced since 1993 , drawing on the rural spirit of picnics and pilgrimages. The people of Avilés quickly embraced the celebration, and since then, expectations have been exceeded.
Eager to have fun, the whole city participates and, in doing so, renews its traditions. The event has been met with complete acceptance throughout the region. The figures for citizen participation speak for themselves: rows of tables set up in the streets for the massive feast stretch for nearly 5.000 meters, more than 20.000 diners sit at them, and the confectioners' guild sells more than 6 tons of the traditional Easter bun , the centuries-old emblem of the celebration.
The spirit of community spirit grows stronger year after year in this vast and vibrant hub that is the town's historic center . Young people gather in groups in the city's parks and choose the meadow as their lunch spot. Groups of friends form specifically for the occasion, joining the established ones: cultural, sports, social, and all sorts of other associations. At the last minute, people, especially tourists, always arrive asking if there's room. And there is room, even if it's packed. The entire town has come out of its shell and is enjoying its role as host.
Seating is assigned strictly in order of registration , and once everyone has a seat, the food arrives. Each person brings their own food in baskets and Tupperware containers: potato omelets, empanadas, steaks… there's always someone who remembers dessert, and cider and/or wine are plentiful. No one goes hungry, as a magnificent fabada (Asturian bean stew) is cooked right there in the bustling Plaza de España.
More than 3000 servings for those who weren't quite ready. You can have a snack at one table, continue with dessert at another, have coffee at yet another, and all without anyone thinking you're taking advantage. Afterwards comes a leisurely after-dinner conversation, perhaps a siesta, and then the brass bands return , along with fanfares in the streets, habanera choirs, Asturian folk songs, and, as night falls, the open-air dance and fireworks.
The bollu is the king
The celebration itself dates back to the late 19th century and was declared a Festival of Regional Tourist Interest in the 20th century . It pays homage to the bollu , a shortbread-like cake shaped like a four-leaf clover or overlapping stars, forming a small castle and covered in powdered sugar; decorated with paper flowers and other motifs, such as the traditional chicks. It's a sweet gift that godparents offer to their godchildren on this day , thanking them for giving them the blessed palm branch from Palm Sunday.
The unique history of this sweet bread dates back to the 18th century , when Asturians began their voyages to the Americas. Among their provisions, they carried buns made with wheat flour, butter, and eggs; buns that had the property of hardening and keeping for a long time without molding. Before evolving into the mantecado we know today, on April 2, 1893, several young women dressed in white rode through the center of Avilés in old horse-drawn carriages. The carriages carried buns and white wine, which were shared among the onlookers.
Afterwards, there's a celebration with bagpipes and drums. This is the first Fiesta de El Bollu, founded by the brotherhood of Dr. Claudio Luanco as a prelude to the arrival of spring. The girls in white from that time are, nowadays, the Xana, the Xanina, and the Ladies-in-Waiting of the festival.
Nowadays, after the opening firework display on Easter Sunday , Avilés is a constant flurry of activity. Pottery fairs, ballet performances, theater, themed competitions, music festivals, stand-up comedy, bagpipers, tournaments and championships of all kinds…
If you can take an extra day off during Easter week, don't miss the most festive Monday . It's one thing to hear about it, but quite another to experience it for yourself.
Text: © Ramón Molleda for asturias.com
