Arnao Mine

Everything is exceptional when it comes to the Arnao mining well, historical mentions support its pioneering character in almost everything that has to do with mining:

It is the first documented coal deposit in Spain. The first underwater mine in Europe. The first mine in our country to use the railway (1836). The first headframe and vertical shaft , the "Grandfather/Güelu" shaft (1856) of Asturian mining. The first Spanish mine to employ women . The first workers' village attached to a mine…

It was also a kind of testing ground for many forms of mining used later in Asturias, such as gunpowder drilling, the systematic removal of coal, iron roads….

A little history of the Arnao Mine

The first references to this coal seam, located in a cliff in the municipality of Castrillón, date back to 1591 , when Friar Agustín Montero requested written permission from Philip II to exploit it. The monarch granted him the license in exchange, among other things, for a substantial payment to the Crown. In any case, it was a short-lived operation. Two galleons loaded with coal were sent from Avilés to Lisbon, and then activity ceased. According to experts, Friar Agustín Montero was two centuries ahead of the actual possibility of extraction, as it would take another two centuries to deepen the shaft and erect the headframe. This first shaft would reach 80 meters underground , with an underwater gallery of about 250 meters. Over the years, the 250-meter depth would be reached , and galleries stretching for kilometers would be developed. The technical advances and infrastructure that enabled this progress were the work of the Royal Asturian Mining Company (RCAM), founded in 1833 by Ferrer, Riera and Lesoinneque (with Belgian capital).

Around this time, the first horse-drawn railway in Spain was built in Arnao , connecting the mine to a small landing stage. In 1835, a brigantine called "El Cid" carried the first shipment of Asturian coal to Adra (Almería). In 1853, faced with the impossibility of using the coal for iron and steel production, a zinc foundry was built in Arnao to utilize the 40.000 tons of coal extracted annually. This factory made the Avilés region a world leader in zinc production. In 1858, Queen Isabella II herself visited the Arnao mine, witnessing firsthand the use of steam power and even descending into the underwater tunnels. In 1863, the railway line was extended, adding a new section between Salinas and Arnao. In 1891, the railway line was finally connected to the port of Avilés. Years earlier, the mining company had acquired the famous "Eleonore" locomotive (restored in 2010, it is located in the Arnao mine square), the oldest narrow-gauge locomotive in Spain. Two other locomotives operated alongside it until 1959, the year a modern zinc factory was built in San Juan de Nieva, near the Avilés estuary.

After repeated seawater leaks and several miners' strikes demanding better working conditions, the Arnao mine finally closed . It was in 1915, when a major leak flooded the mine. In July 2013, the Arnao mining facilities reopened as a museum.

The first miners, those of Arnao

Aside from being one of the country's oldest mines, Arnao is also a key reference point in the history of the Spanish working class . Its first miners were people who lived in the surrounding area and had previously worked as farmers or fishermen. The possibility of a steady income led them to choose the mine. At first, they didn't descend through the headframe, but rather slid down barrels attached to ropes. Children squeezed through the narrowest passages, and at the age of 12, they carried water to the workers. By 16, they were already working in the tunnels. The foreman distributed oil lamps and oil, which was deducted from their wages. The machine for hoisting the ore was powered by oxen, while the women had the arduous task of transporting it down to a space where they sorted the coal before loading it onto the boats . The men's work in conditions of high temperatures and low oxygen forced them to remove their clothing and work half-naked. They had no watches , and their traditional way of working in the fields or at sea, guided by the rhythm of the sun, moon, and stars, was useless underground. They always ended up working more hours than stipulated.

Those miners in berets and espadrilles made mineral extraction possible until the early 20th century. The Royal Asturian Mining Company, for which they worked, sought from the outset a model of life and society for them. A mining village emerged near the mine , following paternalistic patterns imported from Europe. The mine owners aimed to separate their employees from the rest of the area's inhabitants in order to offer them a "new" social position and seemingly "privileged" and "enviable" services. The first area for workers' housing was established around the mine shaft: the neighborhood called "La Mina" (The Mine). Another residential area was the "Factory neighborhood," which ran along the valley floor. In both cases, the residents had to cope with extreme humidity and the smoke from the zinc factory. The village was completed by the company store, the Ave María schools, and the hospital. In the upper, more ventilated part of this area were located the residences of the senior employees and foremen. Above them stood the director's villa.

The vestiges of these mining activities and the town have been part of the Cultural Heritage of Asturias since 2006.

The Arnao Mine Museum

The interpretation center at this site highlights the value of its industrial heritage, as well as providing a documented view of its economic model and all its sociological implications. The museum occupies the old 3th-century mining building , which has served as a workers' club since 1915. Upstairs, in the museum itself, the information panels offer a wealth of reasons to pause and reflect. Thanks to various audiovisual and photographic resources, models, artifacts, and tools, we can gain a realistic understanding of the work in this particular mine and its key facts. For example, in 1833 the Arnao mine employed 11 workers; a year later it employed 38; and by 1835 the workforce had grown to 130, including, for the first time in mining history, three women: Victoria, Josefa, and Teresa.

Guided visit to the Arnao Mine

After visiting the exhibition, and if we have booked it in advance, we can join a guided tour that allows access to the interior of the mine . We begin in the original headframe from 1856, perfectly preserved, including the original cage that transported the miners.

On the tour, we'll descend about 20 meters, the only level accessible because everything else is flooded. The miners used to go down about 80 meters and then descend on foot to a depth of 205 meters with minimal safety measures.

Inside the tunnels, we listened in awe to the explanations and tried to imagine the working conditions that prevailed down there. The fact that the mine was abandoned at the beginning of the 20th century allows us to appreciate remains and vestiges of great historical and archaeological value , something that doesn't happen in other mines whose closure has been more recent. For example, there's an old forge and the straps used to harness the oxen and mules that pulled the mine carts. The tunnel with its 19th-century brick and limestone vaults is a true gem of industrial archaeology. The miners used graffiti on planks and markings on the walls to try to name the tunnels so they could find their way around.

The shaft is divided into two sections: one for ventilation and another that descended 60 meters via a zigzag staircase. Miners climbed these stairs carrying coal in sacks or backpacks that could weigh between 20 and 25 kilos.

It is also worth visiting the mining village with its houses, company store, the director's chalet (awaiting restoration) or the schools, in the back of which, on the ground, we discovered some relief maps made at the time, as well as geometric figures for teaching children.

It is convenient to go slowly and enjoy all these historical jewels.

***NOTICE: the museum will be closed for renovations until May 2024.

Schedules and practical information of the Arnao Mine

Approximate duration of the guided tour: 50-60 minutes.
Recommended for all ages.
It is important book it a few days in advance so as not to have last-minute surprises, as the capacity is limited to 12-14 people.
There nearby parking free outdoors. In summer season the occupancy is usually very high.

Fees for the museum, headframe and descent to the galleries

Single adult (from 15 years old) €4,50
Individual child (from 4 to 14 years old) €2,50
Adult group (minimum 12 people) €3,50
Child group (minimum 12 people) €2,00

Guided visit to Arnao, a working-class town from the XNUMXth century
Price per person €3,00

Opening hours
From June 1 to September 30 and Easter: Tuesday to Sunday from 11 a.m. to 15 p.m. and from 16 p.m. to 20 p.m.
From October 1 to May 31, Tuesday to Sunday from 11 a.m. to 14 p.m. and 16 p.m. to 18:30 p.m.

Address: Calle La Mina 7, 33450 Castrillón (Asturias).
Telephone for information and reservations: 985 507 799
Website: Arnao Mine Museum