The road climbs steadily from the Poncebos bridge, passing through small, handcrafted tunnels, carved into the rock with a bit of dynamite . The Duje River flows alongside us. In the Tielve Valley , at an altitude of 700 meters and about 6 kilometers from Poncebos, we discover the Cabrales cheese tradition like few other places in the region. The raw material for the cheese, the flocks of goats and sheep, can be seen among the rocks, the trees, or proudly crossing the road right in front of our car.
We see Peña Maín, with heights exceeding 1.500 m , and directly opposite the walls of Portudera, above 1.200 m. The orography of the place is capricious and with a predominance of becoming increasingly steep, only allowing us to see small valleys like temporary landings of a staircase that continues its descent in a serpentine manner.
Sotres: Cabrales cheese and more ...
We arrived in Sotres , the highest parish in the Cabrales municipality, after 11 kilometers of winding road from Poncebos. Someone might tell us that around 200 people live here, heirs to a demanding pastoral tradition that once required considerable effort to reach the summit. Nowadays, climbing to Sotres is no longer that kind of challenge, and once at the top, we didn't find a mythical village of cabins and pastures, but rather a decidedly urbanized community where farmers, adventurers, and businesspeople live side by side.
The area boasts a high standard of hospitality, mountain guides, and high-quality artisan products —true gems of tradition—both in food (cured meats, meats, cheeses) and in precious objects of folk art born in the mountains. Cabrales cheese producers are also plentiful , as Sotres has a large number of natural caves for cheese aging, and many have won awards in official competitions for this product.

The Picos de Europa mountains surround this human settlement in such a way that within the inhabited area, strolling along its paths and country lanes, among the rustic houses, we encounter another law of gravity, a little more ethereal, less certain. We stand on solid ground, but all around us there are a thousand reasons to feel vertigo.
If we continue along the road a couple of kilometers further up, towards the neighboring village of Tresviso, we come across a genuine shepherd's hut , cabins in their purest form from which we can enjoy a wonderful panoramic view, weather permitting, of the village of Sotres and the surrounding mountains. We see traces of paths, trails, small scars, that lead from the outskirts of Sotres, continuing deeper into the Picos de Europa.
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Sotres: an exemplary village
In 2024, Sotres received the Exemplary Village of Asturias Award , as stated in the jury's minutes:
"The jury of the 2024 Exemplary Village of Asturias Award, meeting in Oviedo, has agreed to award the 2024 Exemplary Village of Asturias Award to Sotres (Cabrales) for having preserved and promoted, in a high mountain area, a traditional activity based on extensive and sustainable livestock farming, complemented by a quality agri-food industry and tourism . All of this is supported by a thriving and young associative movement that maintains an interest in the preservation of heritage, the conservation of the landscape and the improvement of infrastructure, as well as a remarkable socio-cultural dynamic."
Exemplary towns of Asturias
The Princess of Asturias Foundation awards this prize to the town, village, population center, space… Read more
Hiking routes from Sotres
From Vega de Sotres, we can head towards Pandébano to the very foot of Naranjo de Bulnes, also known as Picu Urriellu . The path is long, but from the Pandébano pass, the first spectacular view of Naranjo opens up before us. We can admire its 2.518 meters, so beautifully sculpted. A towering, isolated peak of Paleozoic origin. Although access to Naranjo and the Vega de Urriellu refuge was traditionally via the Canal de Camburero and Jou Lluengo from Bulnes, or via Horcados Rojos from the Fuente Dé cable car (Cantabria), it was in the 80s that Sotres and its Pandébano and Vallejo passes, accessed from Majada de la Terenosa, became the preferred route. With this popular route, Sotres further enhanced its magnificent location in the Picos de Europa and cemented its reputation as the premier village for Asturian mountaineering.
Route from Sotres to Áliva
The village of Sotres in Cabrales sits at an altitude of 1050 meters, one of the highest inhabited peaks in Asturias. … Read more
The peaks of Europe
In 1918, Spain's first national park was declared in the Covadonga Mountains, now the National Park of… Read more
Do you want to know the Naranjo de Bulnes and other areas of the Picos?
If you'd like to take guided hikes in the Picos de Europa mountains and experience firsthand the extraordinary surroundings , we offer several routes to help you fully enjoy the mountains. You can choose according to your fitness level, the number of days you have available, and whether you prefer to stay in mountain huts or hostels. Several trips are planned for this season ; check out the details of each one and have a great trip!
Great trekking of the Massif Central
On this trek we'll explore the massif, following part of the Extrem Ring route, and sleeping in its legendary mountain huts like Collado Jermoso, Naranjo de Bulnes, and Jou de Los Cabrones…. Read more
Great return to the Picos de Europa
A comprehensive tour with accommodation included through the Picos de Europa. Five days to explore the spectacular landscapes of this national park in depth… Read more
Vindio Picos de Europa ring with summits
Accommodation and half board in the mountain huts of Vega de Ario, Vegarredonda, Vegabaño and the Diablo de la Peña Hostel, and ascent to summits… Read more
Trekking Picos de Europa 5 days
Explore the three mountain ranges, staying in small hotels and the legendary Collado Jermoso refuge, and savoring the region's delicious cuisine… Read more
Accommodation in and around Sotres
Despite being a small mountain village, Sotres offers several hotel establishments, and in the vicinity there is also a wide and varied offer of rural houses , apartments and hotels to enjoy Cabrales.
More info about Accommodation in Cabrales
Routes through the Picos de Europa
The S-cape Travel agency It offers a self-guided hiking package that includes various trekking routes from Sotres. The trip includes:
• 7 nights accommodation with half board
• Luggage transport between the hotels of Sotres and Arenas de Cabrales
• Transfer to the beginning of the routes
• Detailed descriptions of the routes, maps and digital tracks
• 24 telephone assistance hours
More info about hiking trips in Cabrales
Text: © Ramón Molleda for asturias.com































![Route from Bulnes to Picu Urriellu [By Camburero]](http://asturias.com/asturiasbasica/imagenes/ruta-bulnes-picu-urriellu-1m.jpg)
