The Cimadevilla neighborhood in Gijón is a unique environment, not easily found in other historic centers on the Iberian Peninsula, however much they may have been built facing the sea. Cimadevilla has not hindered its development; it boasts tradition but is also pure avant-garde. A work by Chillida, Elogio del Horizonte ( In Praise of the Horizon ), has become, by its own merits, the symbol of the city. From whichever angle you look at it, the enormous sculpture embodies the horizon, appearing different from each perspective and offering us, with every glance, the cosmopolitanism of Gijón.
Praise of the Chillida Horizon
It is a large-scale work erected in 1990 on Santa Catalina Hill in… Read more
The Cantabrian Sea and the hustle and bustle of the city have left indelible marks on both. But above all, there are the marks of its inhabitants: fishermen, cigar makers, artisans… the locals, known as "playos," as those born in this neighborhood are called. Its streets appear tranquil by day, but at night they transform into a vibrant meeting place, with restaurants and cider houses on every corner, and numerous bars where you can stay until the early hours. You can start with some spider crabs or anchovies, warm up with cider, and if the mood strikes, end up very late or very early, depending on your perspective, with a hearty breakfast near the marina.
After years of neglect, its buildings are now a delight to stroll through its charming streets and squares. The buildings have renovated their facades and been given a facelift. More than two hundred buildings are specially protected, and at least a dozen are part of Gijón's cultural and historical heritage.
Route through Cimadevilla
We can take a planned tour of about two hours to immerse ourselves in its unique character and maritime flavor. We'll start in the beautiful Plaza Mayor , dominated by the Town Hall, the setting for festive events and popular celebrations such as Semana Grande (Big Week) or Antroxu (Carnival). We'll pass through the arch in the western part of town and head towards the marina, where we'll come across the Monument to Don Pelayo (a tribute to the first king of the Asturian Monarchy, who appears on the city's coat of arms), located in the center of Plaza del Marqués.
Here stands the 18th-century Revillagigedo Palace , a striking example of Baroque beauty. Attached to it is the Collegiate Church of San Juan Bautista , which hosts classical music concerts throughout the year. If we turn our gaze towards the sea, we'll be struck by the monumental sculpture made from cider bottles , a visual metaphor that invites us to reflect on recycling.
What to see in Cimadevilla?
If we continue along the promenade of the Marina , with its enviable and well-maintained facilities and beautiful surroundings that have made it a stopover for numerous regattas, and reach the end, the breakwater closes off the port, when the sea crashes with force it's a spectacle not to be missed as the waves surge over the seawall. We climb the well-known Cuesta del Cholo (a term brought by emigrants from America) and thus approach the narrow streets that the people of Gijón fill when the good weather arrives.
Cholo Hill, Gijón
In Gijón, as in life, there are hills you go up and hills you go down. Cholo's hill, however, is not … Read more
A few meters further on, we can admire the 17th-century Chapel of Solitude , the spiritual headquarters of the Seafarers' Guild, whose feast day is celebrated in September. At that time, the entire neighborhood is abuzz with festivities and celebrations.
At the end of Artillería Street stands the avant-garde sculpture Nordeste , made of Corten steel by Joaquín Vaquero Turcios. It symbolizes the most eagerly awaited wind of Gijón summers, the one that pushes and sweeps away the clouds, ensuring a sunny day. Continuing up towards Santa Catalina Hill , we pass by what was once an artillery military complex, now restored for the enjoyment of Gijón residents and visitors who enjoy this unique walk.
Text: © Ramón Molleda for asturias.com
